thanks fry!!!! been awhile since ive seen ya.. hope alls well bro!!
thanks fry!!!! been awhile since ive seen ya.. hope alls well bro!!
went to the range and shot 75 rounds in 15 min, it was fun, but I shoulda worn a glove because all that shooting rubbed the skin off my trigger finger..
I save money
I save money
I save money
I save money.....
Well, after I bought all of my molds, dies, lubrisizers, top punches, lubes, gas checks, arbor presses, freechex II. lead pots, smelting articles. powders, primers, presses, load books, scales, trimmers, etc. etc. etc.
and painfully, wheel weights...
I have enough stuff to keep me marginally busy so I can almost stay out of gun shops and away from Graf's and midway for a little while...
And who is gonna believe that?
Tom
μολὼν λαβέ
Did I ever mention that I hate to trim brass?
I wanted to post some pics of what the gun looks like after shooting, you can also see the blood from my trigger finger, yes i will be buying a shooting glove..lol
some more
im thinking about starting a thread on my ruger and linking to this thread, I cant get the front of my cylinder to look pretty and shinny, what do I need to do to get it shinny again?
progression of the cleaning, first couple were dry patched, then i used nitro for a couple more nitro couple more then patched a few more till patch comes out clean..
Man that hurts when they draw blood! Handgun in the avatar can do that, if I load it too fast. Have had that experience.
Ron
In all, the .41 Magnum would be one of my top choices for an all-around handgun if I were allowed to have only one. - Bart Skelton
owwww ur supposed to stop before u get so much blood lolz a shooting glove mite also help
but those boolits are thumpers ( on both ends ) i cant really tell from the fotos but a tip ? when taking pix of the bore a plain white rag or piece of paper behind the barrel ( resting on the recoil shield ) will allow more light into the barrel and give a brighter bore picture , sadly on a revolver one cant take a foto of the throat end and a mirror would be rather hard to get light in it and hold it all still , but it doesnt look heavily leaded up ( a good thing ) as for cleaning ... the front of the cylinder mite always be stained but gumount carb cleaner and a lil elbow grease removes alot , they used to make a product called tombstone comp treatment ( or something similar ) that when applied to those cracks and crevices did help keep some of the fouling from sticking so bad but i havent seen it marketed in quite some time , glad ya had fun amigo !
Meanwhile, back at the ranch!!!!!! For years I used equal parts of beeswax and vasoline with about 2 teaspoons of graphite. Sturred it when it was hot to keep the graphite suspended. It worked very well. When I could afford commercial, I bought commercial, think I tried all of it. Now I use Lars White Lable, Canuba Red. Can't make my own as cheap as he sells it. Feel I am getting low when I am close to only 10 sticks, and reorder.
1Shirt!
"Common Sense Is An Uncommon Virtue" Ben Franklin
"Ve got too soon old and too late smart" Pa.Dutch Saying
ok well I saw no heavy leading from what I can tell just looked like carbon fouling, and I made a lil over 2 pound batch, I wonder how many boolits thatll do.
from the pics of the patches is that bout what most people shooting lube grooved boolits get?
I have been using 10.65gr bluedot with my 310gr, I am thinking of bumping that up to 11.5gr or 12gr..
actually according to the lee second edition they list 10.7 as max with a 310 grain lead boolit ( 9.7 to start , page # 652 btw ) herc 2400 offers a lil better velocity ( according to lee anyways ) i havent checked lyman's or alliant's data ) [shrugz]
its a redhawk itll b ok....lol... im gonna work up slow, I dont know though id hate to have the cylinder blow out id cry a lil..lol===alot
Why push things? Max is max. Period.
If you want more speed get a slower powder. A little over max can get you into REAL pressure fast.
As for parches, can't say. Don't clean mine very often. It is hard to say without being able to see the breech end of the barrel. Hold it up to a light and look for lead streaks. If you have lead, you will know. Look along the edge of the lands and for a ring of lead in the barrel where the frame ends. These are prime areas for lead to get deposited.
sucks it soooo cold out, i have been casting in a basement, hope i dont die..lol
max is max for what, SAA pressures or Plus P pressures?
I shoot that same boolit with a drilled-out gc shank so it's a plain base in my New Vaquero with 10.5 grains of BD, no pressure signs but absolutely as hot as I'll go as it's probably at or just over max pressure for an SAA -style gun. The redhawk is good for far more pressure if you're careful, there's lots of good, published data for +P or "Ruger only " loads for the .45 colt and heavy boolits.
Gear
That looks like a pretty dang good recipe for pan-lubing medium/low-velocity rounds, and who knows? Might be the cat's meow for higher-velocities as well.
One hint: Grind that ivory soap up into as much of a powder form as you can before adding it to your mix. Also, 1/4 of a bar is a LOT--way more than you probably need.
P.S. use some Scotchbrite pads with a little Hoppes or Shooters Choice (or solvent of your choice) to clean the end of your cylinder. You can also use some 0000 steel wool, but I like the Scotchbrite pads better. Just cut off a piece about the size of a cleaning patch, soak it, and you'll get the crud and carbon off easy and quick.
Last edited by Recluse; 01-01-2011 at 08:42 PM. Reason: Edited to add a cleaning tip
Speed green. Nuff said.
Gear, I was just saying that for a new reloader going over max published data is not a good idea. Now if he is using data published somewhere for this powder/bullet com be I'm ok with it.
I just hate to see a newbie allowed to go down a road that can have disasterous consequences. I'm just a safety first kind of guy.
the Redhawk is plenty strong but I don't want to see him go down the " awwwwww, it can take anything" road.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |