MiHec's mould handles

[Dale53]

I bought a couple of pair of MiHec's mould handles. They are very well made (and of solid steel) with nice handles and tubular SS ferrules.

The ferrules were loose, so I decided to do what I do with ALL mould handles. In this case, I used Gorilla Glue, applied with a Que Tip to the wood that is covered by the ferrule and slid the ferrules over the glue. Gorilla Glue expands as it dries for a tight fit.

I then used a 3/32" drill and drilled the ferrule and installed a
3/32"x 1" roll pin (also called a tension pin). I drove it in flush on one side and ground it flush on the other side. To make things clear, I took some photos:

First, I used a center punch to mark the drill point:



Then, using a drill press, I drill through the ferrule, the wood, the steel, the wood again, and the other side of the ferrule. Then I install the roll pin. (Use the same size of drill for the roll pin - I use 3/32" drill for a 3/32"x1" roll pin. That insures the correct tension on the pin).



I seat the roll pin flush with the first side. Then, using a dremel tool with grind stone, I grind the other end flush. Be sure to go deep enough that it will not cut your fingers.



This makes an excellent pair of handles even better. They should never give any further problems.

I have never had a handle break until if first came loose from the steel. Then, with extra play, the wood fails as you squeeze the handles. I have handles, over the years, fail from Saeco, Lyman and Lee. Now, when the handles are new (regardless of brand) I "improve" them before I ever use them.

Dale53

[Ben]

Dale :

Dynamite won't affect your modification. That's great. Something that would be easy for all of us to do.

Many thanks,

Ben

[Dan Cash]

Way better fix than what Lyman has done to their newer handles; that pin down handle from the ferrule sure gets hot and it is right where you grip the handles. Oy!

[Daddyfixit]

Nice work Dale! I think I'll give it a try.
Thanks

[Dale53]

Sharing our little tips and kinks with each other helps ALL of us. That is GOOD!

Dale53

[white eagle]

I put a rivet in mine

[Three-Fifty-Seven]

Great idea, I'll have to add that to my "to do" list!

I also have a pair of Mihec's handles, they feel very sturdy, but I've had one ferrel come loose . . . now I know how I'm gonna fix it!

[DukeInFlorida]

I always use Gorilla glue to attach my wood to the steel. I used to use the red silicone (high temp) stuff, but find that the Gorilla glue actually sets better from the heat.

They've never come loose, no matter how much I try.

[RP]

I used epoxy on my handles which seems to be working for me so far never did the gorilla glue trick. Will have to try that out on the next set of handles BTW whats the fork in th picture for ? do you stick it in whatever your working on when its done, I always thought it was just a saying.

[Dale53]

Ricky;
Actually, the fork is a "tool" for replacing Ruger mainsprings over the strut. It's a real fork, but has been drafted as a "tool"...

You guys don't miss a trick!

Dale53

[RP]

I see just like my wife uses butter knifes for screwdrivers and pry bars.

[Dale53]

Ricky P;
Nope, this one is a "dedicated" tool just for this purpose...

Dale53

[L1A1Rocker]

Dead thread come forth!

Thanks for the info for a noob. I've been having my Lee handles work loose sooo. . . . The local Home Box store only had 1/8 by 1 inch but I figured that would be close enough. I've got two lee handles and one RCBS to do this with.

Again, thanks

[Rattlesnake Charlie]

I fix loose handles of all brands and styles by grinding a few "teeth" into the metal, then drip some two-part epoxy into the wooden handles, and then slip the steel part into it. You may get some glue squishing back out, so be ready. I've not had one come loose after this fix.

[Lance Boyle]

Nice tip, I have a pair of those and the metal ferrules tend to fall off if I have to wood kiss the handles to drop. A tad annoying and I'm going to grab my bottle of GG.