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I have a BSA large martini action that came with a rf ejector, the lever fingers have been shortened to drop the breech block to align with the rf chamber. NO other changes from the original large...

I made a batch with Min Wax, works fine, first batch so nothing to compare it to.

I read that the coating is a polymer "of some kind" it's for sure some tough stuff!
I have removed it with paint remover followed by wet pin tumbling.
Soaking them in the paint remover for a...

I have a Lee 6 that I drilled and reamed to cast .187 cores. A 6 banger will drop a pile of cores quickly, the process is faster than casting bollits, they don't have to be perfect out of the mold,...

I have loaded 14.5 of WC820 behind 169gr. jacketed and 174gr cast with no pressure signs or function problems.

Paullacy I have a DC .30 cal., same problem. I took the handles off a defunct Lee Dc mold and added two brass shims to each side to take up the slack. Works fine!
To remove the pinned on handles,...

Look at the 7.62 Nagant case, slight taper.

I have both, the chips seem to clean small cases (5.7X28, .222) better and quicker, clean pockets better, otherwise a tossup.

riverdog I had to dig the 219 out of it's home to check, the .410 barrel has no model number or address line on it. I have a 16ga 220 marked barrel that is identical in the latch/ejector block, the...

I put a .410 mod 220 barrel on a 219, it was out of square top to bottom of the breech, no signs of any mods. I chucked it up and took a light cut or two and when it was square it fit and latched...

In a single
shot application the polymer coating serves no purpose.
In the FN system it was needed to slow extraction till the barrel pressure dropped to a safe level.
The 5.7X28 in a rifle...

I used a paint stripper to remove the plastic from 5.7s, tough stuff! I load and shoot them out of a 17" insert in a H&R Topper. I don't think it needs to be removed to reload the cases, but they...

H&R also made smoothbore 45-70's used by the Navy as line throwing guns. I saw them used many times during underway replenishment operations.

I have 2 10-22s, both will foul out at some point and stovepipe an empty, pull the bolt and clean it and the inside of the receiver, spray in some graphite lube and they're cured. No idea what the...

Bullbarrel, I mixed mine 50/50 by volume, works fine, add more lanolin if you want it thicker. No rocket science involved or I'd have been lost!!

I can not get into IM, I keep getting a "server error" message. My IM or another, same result.
Thanks, Nick

Tapioca makes great "shot" for bee loads.

Will, I just finished my first batch, looks OK, not cool yet. In your pictures I saw your thermometer, did you happen to take the temperature when you thought it was finished?
I happened to remember...

I had nose folds, better annealing got mine to go away, the softer cases did not fold.
Not rushing the point form process seems to help also, slower steadier pressure.

Expat74: acetone takes some of it off, pin tumbling takes some more off, but I have not found anything that takes it off without annealing the brass. MEK is the last chemical I want to try.

I just got 1K Sierra 224's for $100.16 shipped, delivered yesterday!

Whizzer; thanks for the link, that's sweet, I'd crew on that just to watch it shoot, love to see it fire in the dark!
Nick

No sheriff signature needed, they just need to have a copy in their file, same thing when it's time to renew.
Nick

Bob thanks for posting the "paper tricks", I had read about paper beside the clamped object, but not about the drill trick. Worked just fine for me!
Nick

30yr; yes card stock between the halves, moderate clamp pressure.
I used a 4 flute straight reamer, no paper between the halves while reaming in the drill press, Kroil for lube.
Light de burr...