Search:

Peter,
AggieEE has answered your query exactly as I would have. The citric will certainly not tarnish the stainless. The bicarb in the rinse is not needed, due to the special nature of citric acid....

Ron,
You are set on citric for a good long time! You are also headed for success, so keep us posted.

Mt Gun is spot-on, the citric works well on it's own-- and very fast when used hot-- but...

Jmsj,
Looks like Wally covered your questions pretty thoroughly.

Nope, no problem at all if a little of the citric gets trapped in the primer cup and primer pocket. Won't hurt anything. It's...

Thanks for the info, Unclenick.

I use 2 teaspoons/qt water, or 3 tablespoons citric per gallon water. Good luck!

7BR,
Your math is a worthy and valiant effort, and is to be commended. The rub inherent in the question, "What is the length of travel for one revolution at N distance" is that the question involves...

Good score, and surprise.

Larry,
You are of course right on. I thougth about that aspect when I replied, but decided not to add precession to the mix. In fact, and as you know, because of the magnus force, the bullet never...

That is probably not what you mean. The bullet can be stable along it's axis, but unless the gyroscopic axis roughly follows the trajectory, the bullet will not be stable in flight. The bullet can...

I once got a loose live small primer in range scrap. That one was loud.

Sore chagrined indeed! I managed to cut a steel skyscreen support rod with a swaged 223 bullet. It gave the unit a real yank, so I replaced the steel rods with wooden dowels. Just one of those luck...

Spend your effort on a simple two-piece aluminum mold. With careful use of even just an electric drill, and one can make an excellent core mold. Install some locating pins and clamp with a metal...

I am slightly hesitant to join in, but let's see how it goes. You may wish to define your interpretation of 'stability' to move forward with that question. There are several different ways in which a...

My observations match LWKnights. Also, the higher the pour temp, the greater the shrinkage cavity on the ingots. Good luck.

Mike,
No worries. Hope your lead melting/pouring continues to go well, and keep on posting your observations.

Regards, and good luck. :drinks:

That variance is pretty small. You'll not likely be able to discern any variance while crimping or shooting. .003" variance will not cause a mismatch with virtually any cast-bullet crimp groove, and...

If heat is not the cause of the lead oxide colors, we'll have to rewrite our understanding of the chemical metallurgy of lead. A huge body of evidence supports the lead oxide color cause-and-effect....

That's a good idea, but the analogy of water (when used with a surfactant as a polar molecule) to render oily substances soluble, is not apt as compared with the non-polar, non-wetting action of lead...

Heat is the cause, as the colors are oxidation, and higher heat accelerates the formation of oxides. The colors are common at low heat with soft lead. Good luck.

Think long term, and as advised above, never turn down any source of lead. You may suddenly find a stash of linotype at a flea market/garage sale/etc, and you can always buy a small amount of high-Sb...

Works well for me too. Good luck.

If it's hard lead, that dross is likely to be one of several common Sb compounds. Sb can form white, yellow, or red compounds easily. There's a post or two every month about "strange yellow powder"...

The melt likely got a little too hot in your absence. Those colors are probably antimony compounds, just part of the expectable dross. Was there any antimony in the alloy?

Some pellets are certainly hard lead. Brand makes a difference. No reason to expect pure lead.

Sounds like waaay too hot. When overheated, ww alloy will form a dross that turns dark and powdery. Reduce the heat a bit-- more heat is not always better. Good luck.