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Items that have been sold have been updated with SOLD.

I was given a box of reloading stuff by a friend, and have already picked out all the things I actually need. I'm selling off what's left. All prices are negotiable. All prices are before actual...

A R.E.A.L type bullet would likely work well, but I'll have to give up the idea of having a guide step at both ends that makes the bullet super easy to seat.

Mine is a new Pietta.

I'll ponder the advice in these last two comments. Thank you.

Version 3, based partly on feedback from Hellgate.

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I want something closer to a modern design, with a broader flat frontal area than a conical so I could use it for dueling trees, plate racks, small game hunting, etc.

I already have conical molds...

Waksupi, you left one comment saying it won't work worth a darn because it has less bearing surface than a ball and then you peaced out, never explained your assertion, and then came back to make a...

3D printer. I had five of each ready in 45 minutes. The printer made them while I was eating dinner.

So, to all the people who told me these won't fit in the loading window, this is why I take measurements and make models first. It's not a guess. They both fit with tons of room to spare. ...

Yeah I get it. You don't like version 1. Noted. Thank you.

You may be correct about the rear-facing taper being detrimental to accuracy, however. It's a 9.9 degree taper from .375" to .319".

That unsupported section of the nose that you're fretting about is only .16" long. The entire bullet (version 1) length is only 125% of diameter. So it's not like it's extremely long to the point...

Yup. And that's why I was marginally concerned about tripling the amount of full diameter contact area with version 2 (the wadcutter style one).

You're right, Hellgate. I went back and read through again. I thought somebody somewhere along the way had suggested a second grease groove. Now, I'm not 100% sure why.

Perhaps I'll make a...

Are you going to explain the point you're trying to make, or are you just here to lord over me and act superior without making an actual argument?

I posted this to get meaningful feedback, not...

The suggestion to make the nose shorter does not seem to be accompanied by a reason.

I'll probably reduce the diameter of the guide step on the wadcutter design a bit to make room for the paper wrap when used in a cartridge.

I'm going to 3D print test items for both of these in the next day or so, then see what I see. Rapid prototyping FTW.

The point of modeling it in the computer first, is so I can measure everything and I don't have to guess. I don't like guessing. Guessing is expensive and wasteful. Using a short, squat bullet...

I'm trying a few of the other suggestions here on a second model. There's no really good way to have 3 driving bands, 2 grease grooves, a .365" guide step, and keep the weight around 130 grains...

The first design posted here is .47" long from end-to-end, and the opening in the frame is about .56" tall, so no modification to the gun should be required to get it to fit.

It's got more bearing surface than a round ball, and those shoot just fine. Of the several concerns voiced here, this is the only one so far that doesn't seem to make sense to me.

I don't have the tools or skills to cut a mold, so I'll have to have someone else do it. I'll check out the company you suggested, bedbugbilly.

I "think" the rammer nose on mine is mostly flat. I'll double check and see if I can get a decent photo of that.

ETA: The end of the rammer has a shallow cup shape. It'll probably deform a flat...