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5 parts lead to 1 part linotype works just fine.

Why make life difficult, coolant isn't a hassle if you use water soluble types.

If you get tails it's usually because the pellets are catching a burr as they leave the ramp, sand the edge. Popcorn is from heating the lead too hot in the pan.

I started using water with a layer of vegetable oil floating on top. It made great shot but every time I have used any type of oil it has been a nightmare trying to get the shot clean. You can wash...

If you use a consistent method of work apart from the odd blob the shot should be all the same size anyway.

I think you need the ramp to be hot to stop the lead freezing on it. There's no way of doing that with this design. If you go to a local fabrication shop they would make a pot with a built in ramp...

I would avoid thinning down the fab con or you might get pits in the shot and I doubt it freezing would matter. I also certainly would add graphite, it performs a number of functions to improve the...

When I started making shot the traditional way was to use a thick layer of cooking oil floated on water.
The shot would pass thru the oil and then in its coated state would enter the water. ...

Putting a given recipe into a shorter case than it was designed for can raise pressures significantly.

I use it neat and start from cold but warming it up a little may help.

I tried all sorts of oil, cooking oil, diesel and proper quenching oil and found they all to a man were virtually impossible to clean no matter what you washed them in. It was as if the oil got right...

Lanber produce mid range guns that are reliable and excellent value.

A hot plate wont melt lead easily, the built in thermostat struggles to get to that temperature then folk take it out and the thing fries. Boiling rings as spares for a cooker range will reach the...

There's no point using bolts that are any longer than they need be. 1/2" or so should fit the bill.

Try this. http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/topic/236543-shotmaker-dimensions/

http://www.saddleryandgunroom.co.uk/Gunroom/SG_Hushpower.htm

Yes either will work. I learnt a while ago after stretching the threads and ruining drippers how important this is. I wait until the ladle is cold and they come apart easily. Just mash a bit onto the...

Put a release agent on the threads when assembling, copper ease http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2047675.m570.l2632.R2.TR2.TRC1.A0.H1.Xcopper+ease&_nkw=copper+ease&_sacat=174123&_from=R40 is...

Ebay or google it. It is quite expensive though. I just came across a free tube and gave it a try I was using Copper-ease before that which worked well but not quite as good. The reason I like...

I use a product called Graphogen assembly paste to lube the ramp and it is by far the best of all that I've used. I see no value to polishing the ramp as whatever lube you do use, chalk or whatever...

Within 1/4" at the very most.

If you get a bucket with say 50lb of shot in it a teaspoon full of graphite chucked on the top it would be more than enough to do the job. I use a paint stirrer in an electric drill for a couple of...

Try this

http://forums.pigeonwatch.co.uk/forums/topic/236543-shotmaker-dimensions/

If you get popcorn from using fabric conditioner it's because you are getting the lead too hot. Either get a thermometer or just listen for the tell tale crackle as the lead hits the coolant. Below...

I have an FW and setting it up is no different to any single stage reloader to be honest.