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I've always used bevel down, another guy I know always uses bevel up. Like was said above, whatever puts the most sparks in the pan. It may even be different with different flints. They are their...

Skip the synthetic, use real english flints and keep them sharp. I used to get them from Dixie Gun Works or Dixons muzzleloading shop in Kempton, pa. The real ones last forever and are easy to...

I suppose you could but, ya still have to keep an eye on it as the muzzle will cause your coating to wear off. You would then be back where you started. Are you looking for a range rod or a...

They truly add meaning to "reactive targets".

Unfortunately, my steel shooting is limited to friends campground during their closed season. Very few outdoor ranges around here allow shooting anything but, paper. Liability issues I suppose but,...

My thoughts as well but, not lookin to rile anybody up.

Well, that gives me lots of info to digest to decide if I wanna go the casting route with this rifle. I'll start with a bore slugging and go from there, thank you for all the great info.

There really should not be that much difference. Like they said above, experiment with your patch material, lube and thickness. I actually found a midweight denim works great for my flintlocks. If...

I took my 500 s&w out along with my Sig c3 to shoot at a steel plate this morning. This is a 3/8 plate I got off eBay and just hangs on a heavy duty shepherds hook. The 45 rang it swung it as...

Bore Butter is a good lube if your hunting and going to leave the load in all season. I use that with the cut at the muzzle method and if I have to reload while hunting I'll use spit and cut at the...

Ok, get the inlay in as best you can by removing the material behind it and lightly peening to any curve of the stock, this is where the annealing helps by making the inlay softer. Only peen on the...

What docone said, only thing I would add is anneal the inlay (brass anyway) first and it will be easier to make it conform to any curves in the stock.

Is this a gun your building with an unfinished stock or are you adding this to an already finished stock?

Anybody casting for the 348 win. I have a model 71 that I hunt deer and bear with and would like to start casting for it. I cast for several handguns but, this would be my first casting for a rifle.

I always try to break a shoulder when shooting a deer or bear. Up to now I have always used a rifle, 348 Win., and almost without fail they dropped on the spot and never had to follow a blood trail....

Finally got one of Cabelas 1hp grinders. Wish I had done it years ago as that hing just goes thru a deer like lightning. Then, it makes a great bologna and sausage stuffer as well. My old...

when you melt lead, whether smelting ingots or casting bullets, make sure you have no distractions ie: kids and pets. Yes, they are excited and interested in what you are doing but, molten lead is...

Cool, let me know what the crony tells ya. Looking at the cylinder on the gun and the loaded rounds, there should be plenty of room to seat to the first crimp groove.

The 440gr wfn I am loading has 2 crimp grooves. If I seat it to the first groove instead of the second (increasing overall length) I suppose I could bump up the Trail Boss load and get a bit more...

I think that is close to max for TB so I might have to try a different powder. Had some good groups with Alliant 2400 with jacketed bullets. Might see what I can find for cast with that.

I'm using that Trail Boss load as well and it's great out to 75 yds on steel plates. That is farther than I would shoot at a deer so I' ll be comfortable with that for now.

I have been shooting a 440gr over 10gr of Trail Boss, pretty mild but, really rings the steel plates at 75 yrds. A 300gr ftp over some alliant2400 has put quite a few woodchucks down for the count...

I shoot a 310 wnfp and it does about 3 inches at 25 yds, however; after 30 yds i have had some keyholing with that bullet. Could be I'm not pushing it fast enough i suppose. I don't have...