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Knapping or reknapping a flint is pretty easy, especially if you do it by pressure flaking. Btw, I've learned here and on other forums that it's better to replace the least expensive item, i.e., the...

Long ago I had a beat up (not by me!) Mossberg semi auto #352 (?) .22cal. carbine (You know, the one with the fold down front grip). Not a target gun, but a great plinker!

I’m just wondering if the community agrees that the SWC design needs to go faster in order to stabilize. How fast are you needing to push it so that it is still stabilized at 50 yds? ...Longfellow...

Wally, I use that design in my 10.5"bbl'ed. SBH and find it to be quite accurate, but both the RCBS and Lyman Keith types are more so. The advantage of the TL is that it is a 6 cav. v. 2 for the...

Lyman once offered a mould that cast two pieces: a soft nose + a harder base (no gas check). You were supposed to epoxy them together and size them to suit once the epoxy cured. (I think it was a...

Ammohead may [still[ do that; also Eric Ohlen.

TA, I smelted "pure" lead and got lots of dross, but few problems casting with it once I fluxed it and added a bit of tin. Also, I test "unknown" ingots by throwing them on the concrete floor of my...

Wolfdog, The Lee 8mm CB casts smaller than the silhouette mould you showed above, somewhere around .323". The nose is likely to be a slip fit in your muzzle as well, meaning you won't have to...

If the CB's need sizing, I do it prior to lubing with Xlox. Sometimes I use a lube sizer though, but the diluted Xlox is certainly faster once you've sized them.

Can't say for sure as I bought a quart jug of it years ago. It works quite well: You use only enough to give the bullets a golden color.

Have you considered Lar's Xlox diluted with a bit of mineral spirits, Mike? You can use it on microgroove as well as regular CB's.

#311291 is a 2-diameter bullet; i.e., a bore rider v. #311467, which is a single (in theory) diameter Loverin design. If the first has a large enough forepart (nose), it is likely to be accurate. ...

My orange Lyman #55 broke when it rolled off my reloading bench. Got a new one (silver hammer tone) from Lyman, but it was stiff. The innards (all of them) from the orange one fit the new body...

Agree with post #3

Wrap the handles in leather lacing and wear welders' gloves when casting with it, which I'd consider doing again. Why? From what I see in your pics, it casts quite well.

What velocities did you see, and what alloy did you use? Powder coated or naked? Gas checked? Leading?...VP

Alloy is basically WW + 2% Sn; velocity is ~1,600 - 1,650 fps, which is fast enough to...

Not exactly, VP. To wit, I loaded my .30-06 (Mod. 70 Win.) with 55 gr. IMR 4350 and 55gr. IMR 7383 and a Sierra 125gr. jacketed bullet. The chronograph showed very clearly how each load performed. ...

Some more points I neglected to mention about IMR 7383. (1) 7383 is best used with a chronograph so you know exactly how it performs with respect to velocity, and maybe pressure. (2) It doesn't...

I agree with Bigslug completely: Well-written and spot on!

Heavier bullets, as long as you don't heavily compress 7383.

326966Let me say at the outset that IMR 7383 is better suited to jacketed bullets than cast and has a burn rate somewhere between IMR 4350 and 4831. This varies by lot (mine has no lot no.),...

The CB on the right is a NOE/ C.E. Harris bullet @ .316" and ~ 162gr. The left hand one is a Lee bullet for the 8mm Mauser, which I forced through a Lee sizer to ~.316" (better to do this in a...

Years ago, when I had my FFL, I purchased a NIB Type 56 SKS from Navy Arms. After I slugged the bore, I had Veral Smith (LBT) make a copy of the C.E. Harris designed bullet to fit that rifle. ...

If you can determine the actual bore diameter, go to the Tanner Ball Moulds site and see what is offered. The moulds are 1 cavity (no sprue cutter), brass, and made to the diameter you specify. ...

Is that also known as a basin wrench?