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I just in 100 rounds of once fired 8x56RS brass, its from Diamond K Brass. it looks brand new (but with a fired primer in the case) and it seems to be all PPU brass. A little cheaper than new brass but I did save $10.00. I picked up some range lead this afternoon I'm trying to cook it down now. It's kinda working. I'll load it and them anneal this batch of brass. I'll be trying ACC 2400 on the next batch also.
My brass came in and it's marked 8x56RS , so i'm good to go on reloading for my Hungrian Steyrs. but anneal the brass after a couple of loading.
............Just out of curiosity, what does the barrel on your rifle/carbine slug?
...........Buckshot
two of my barrels slug .330 I can't read what I did on one and one is .334. the two with .330 are a rifle and the other is a carbine. but I need to check the one that I lost the data on. I( also need to do a trigger job on all four of them. the triggers are horrible.)
I took a look at the trigger on one of mine and put it back together, couldn't figure out where to start. That is one complex piece of equipment - and mine was smooth with no burrs or obvious rough areas.
I honed the top of the firing pin releace and it helped a little. that metal is {"HARD" ) I had to use a honing stone, because a file wouldn't touch the metal. it was like glass. those things are a work of art. and well made. the only thing I don't like about the hungrian steyrs is the caliber. it's a killer"on either end"!
'o' I've used 9,10-12 gr.s of Red dot including the same weights of trail boss these are good accurate loads for all four of my steyrs, but 15-16 gr's of 2400 is a great accurate load also. I got a 1/2inch 4 shot group at 25yards getting my scope shot in and two 1 1/2" groups at 50 yards with the 2400. all shot with a long eye relief scope on one of my carbines.(.330 barrel) powder coated bullet about .335 or so.
..............The triggers on these things aren't really conducive to letting the user make adjustments. They're not hung on a pivot pin, and their mechanical advantage isn't great. In addition if the sear surfaces aren't parallel you'll find (watch the cocking knob) you're also retracting the sear against mainspring pressure as you pull the trigger. They're kind of like squeezing a Plum :-) On mine I D&T'd a hole for a setscrew that bears in the leg of the sear. Screwing it down pushes the trigger sear down to lessen engagement (length of the triggerpull), but I'm not recommending it. I've not had it happen but conceivably I suppose if you went too far in adjustment, it could slamfire when you shoved the bolt closed via the cocking piece overriding the triggersear. It appears to me as they're supposed to be operated like you're wanting to jerk the bolt out of the rifle, and in the other direction as if you're trying to push the barreled action out of the stock :-)
..............Buckshot
Buckshot- that's the most accurate description of working a straight pull bolt action that I've heard! Forget about quietly clambering a round when game appears...........
buckshot; you ain't wrong. I have one(my rifle that needs a soft hammer to open the bolt after it's fired.) just like you said!
............The actions are stout, and I've found no accuracy issue with them so long as the barrel & chamber are reasonable :-)Quote:
Originally Posted by pakmc
http://www.fototime.com/F2618D4764522E3/standard.jpg
The above is a M95 I converted to 30-40 Krag.
http://www.fototime.com/DA8D10ACD6EB674/standard.jpghttp://www.fototime.com/3F99F55C9811736/standard.jpg
Group fired at Winnemucca, NV. Very first 'For Effect' group fired with new rifle. Load 23.0grs H4198 + Dacron, Lyman 311284. Fired at 50 yards, 1.050". Unscaled slugs, thrown powder charges, issue trigger.
...............Buckshot