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I have been disconnecting the driveline of my 04.5 Dodge/Cummins and there are puddles (hardened) of Loctite between the flanges and as well as excessive amounts on the bolts. Is there a solvent that will dissolve Loctite? I could just add more and put them back but it would be nice to clean the bolts.
Nope - not even straight acetone once it has gone off. Heat breaks it down, but I would just run everything under a wire wheel to clean it all up.
MEK should do it. There used to be a solvent from Loctite, maybe 755.
I have used heat (torch) to soften it, then a wire brush to get it off bolts. Doesn't take much heat so an electric heat gun might work too.
755 might have been methylene chloride, common in effective paint and epoxy stripper.
It's a grease remove for use before using a Loctite product http://www.henkel-loctites.com/LOCTITE-755
Best would be to email or call Loctite.
Be sure to chase the threads with a tap as well prior to putting the bolts back in.
I used a small torch to heat the muzzle break on a buddies ar so it would screw off and get replaced.Cleaned up the threads on the bbl with a wire wheel in my dremel. Since he had all the index washers supplied with the muzzle break, he wanted loctite on the install. I had the blue locktite so that is what we went with. Think that is the lowest strength one out there. Frank
Naval Jelly. You can find it at most home improvement stores.
remember to clean the opposite threads as well before you reassemble
Somewhere I read that Loctite will soften old loctite. I haven't tried it so I don't know if it works but, putting some on one of the bolts won't hurt as all of it can be removed with a wire brush/wheel if it doesn't.
Wire brush on your bench grinder. Clean the whole bolt.
That's what I do.Quote:
Originally Posted by Froogal
The wire wheel on my bench grinder will clean them right up. Make sure to wear gloves or it will clean the skin off your fingers as well.
I have a really old tap and die set that I bought from Sears many years ago. Chasing both the internal threads with a tap reminds me that, that tap and die set has literally paid itself off many times. There were a few places back in NY that bought out old machine shops and they usually had taps and dies in all sorts of sizes and at dirt cheap prices. Not much in the gun trade taps and dies so those that I needed were bought from a machine shop supply house on Long Island NY. I used to hit that place about once a month looking for goodies. I used to bring in firearms after I asked permission to do so. One of the guys was a huge firearm fan and his boss as well. They treated me well and got to see the boss's sharps collection. This was when the Farmingdale Sharps were made on Long Island. Frank
I use a fairly soft wire wheel mounted in the drill press.
(Don't forget to wear gloves)
Use new bolts and torsion to specifications, bolts may have stretched. Cheap to do.
Your choice
That hardware is in good shape. I would just clean the heads then hose the threads male & female down with loctite quick cure primer. When dry re apply blue loctite and torque. Thats what we did in the shop.