Hi guys,
how do you heat your metal parts? (barrel)
For small parts I use a heat gun, but past the butt plate in size and a heat gun just isn't cutting it. Ever use a propane torch?
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Hi guys,
how do you heat your metal parts? (barrel)
For small parts I use a heat gun, but past the butt plate in size and a heat gun just isn't cutting it. Ever use a propane torch?
I have used a propane torch. An oven is best if it will fit. A torch takes awhile but works. Just gotta keep working the torch up and down the barrel until it gets hot enough. Repeat until you get the effect you want.
Used the oven when I built my T/C Hawken back in the day, worked great.
My oven is not 42 inches wide :)
I'll use the torch, thanks guys
When browning rifle barrels, I hang them vertically with a wire through the breech plug after de-greasing and heat them with a propane torch. Once I get them "sizzle-hot" they are ready to start browning. Wear clean cotton gloves when handling to avoid a spotty finish. You do have to work the torch flame up and down to get a uniform temperature. If your soldered-on barrel tenons or sights fall off, you got it too hot!
I do what curator does.
I went to slow rust browning, and no longer worry about it.
With a propane torch that has a spreader tip. Heat metal till hot to touch with a finger. Then FLOW the browning solution onto the metal. Additional coats increases the darkness of the browningQuote:
how do you heat your metal parts? (barrel)
I use a clay back propane stove. The steel hearth will heat a barrel evenly.
i prefer barrels and furniture in-the-white, to patina on their own, as was done back in the day. problem solved. ;)
I'm with Waksupi. Built a box frame, covered it in heavy mil clear plastic, put in a 15 watt light bulb for warmth. I'd card and coat in the morning before going to work and in the evening after dinner. Took a week but I found I got much better results and it's a more forgiving method. When I retired I tried carding more frequently but it didn't improve the finish any.
On the fowler I just completed, I did a faux damascus finish, and just let the color go to a French grey, but still showing the pattern. There is a pilgrim in the club who couldn't believe I wasn't going to brown it. When I told him many original guns were left in the white to naturally age, I got "the look"!Quote:
Originally Posted by rfd
My Christian Springs transitional rifle, I put on a light French grey, and over the years it is gaining an excellent brown patina that would be impossible to achieve with any other method aside from honest use.
I do the same thing and if I want a blued finish I just boil the parts in water.Quote:
Originally Posted by waksupi
Two torches. Heats faster and more evenly. Apply the Browning with forceps holding cotton balls dunked in the solution.
I scald the barrel by pouring Boiling Water over it after each rusting and scratching.Never fails to impart a good colour.
Usually a propane torch if using a product like Plum Browing solution
I have only done one and I just used a propane torch and it came out ok.
I am sure it is not the quality that true browning would provide.
I have read of those in the old days taking their new in the white barrels and urinating on them daily until the desired "finish" level was obtained.
Reckon I'll just stick with the Plum Brown solution.
I use my small toaster oven ($3.00 at a garage sale!) for the small parts. For barrels, take out the breech plug if you can, suspend the barrel vertically and use the propane torch flame applied into to the lower end of the barrel. It will heat up very quickly and evenly using that chimney effect.