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It appears breaking and bending pins is an occupational hazard for anyone who reloads and I'm not immune...what I do use a universal decapping die on all my cases rather than the FLS incorporating decapping pin etc of the caliber reloading....I do tumble them first but after decapped tumble them again - I then use the FLS or neck die on them and usually with the pin removed (truth be known I never bothered replacing them when they broke :) )
Why I went this way because after bending a few rods or snapping pins on some brass I looked at why and found many did not have perfectly centered flash holes and some decapping rods did not have the flexibility to move slightly to find the holes and align especially for the smaller calibers such as the 22AH, 222R etc.....that caused most of the problems hence the universal decapping die...
I have also drill bits like previously posted but found the cobalt ones best - just cut to correct length needed and round them down with the dremel ....they tend not to deflect or bend as some pins do but conversely if you put too much pressure on it, the rod itself will bend rather than the pin - some manufacturers design them for that purpose.
Firstly though I would check your flash holes and those way off discard as you'll always have problems with them...just not worth it and then take measure if you still get problems........hope that helps......Lee
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I simply use the Lee decapping universal die to remove all primers. Note* the Lee pin sucks and lasts about 15 minutes before bending so I came across some hardened pins on ebay that work great. Most .223 /5.56 brass I get has staked primers thus the struggle getting them out and probably the reason you also are bending /braking decapping pins.
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I had the "LEE" universal depriming die, but it seems their pin isn't very hard, bends and gets dings in it. I have since ordered the Dillon depriming die and have had no problems. I almost exclusively have LC brass and so far have had good luck with the Dillon. I first deprime, swage the primer pockets, then run them through the Pin Tumbler, then size. Seems the sizing lube stops the brass from tarnishing. Then trim to length. Tedious but beneficial
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Something you may look at. On military brass I have found some with flash holes that are not round. There is excess material and burrs. Use a flash hole deburring tool to correct the problem. I was having decapping pin problems till I discovered this. Cheap and easy to use.
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I just took a peek at those flash hole tools, look inexpensive and most have positive reviews. Using a flashlight to check I did notice the hole was not especially well defined.
How do you like this. Lee Precision will "give" me a "free" replacement, I just have to pay the $5.21 in shipping. Considering the pins are $3 - $2.25 on sale it just makes more sense to piggyback replacement pins I "pay for" onto order of other items to get "free" shipping for the replacement pins since the pins cost less than Lee charges for the shipping and won't add shipping cost to any other order.
Tempted to send them a self addressed stamped envelope and the damaged pin, just for the satisfaction of pointing out the lunacy of that warranty coverage on that part. A press it makes sense, a de-capping pin it does not.