My tumble lubing technique

I started with Lee liquid alox. It worked okay, but didnt look real good nor dry real good. So I made some 45/45/10. It does much better as far as drying and looking decent in the finished product.

Well I got to thinking about it, I dont think i've ever seen the method I use to apply tumble lube elsewhere. Its quite simple, so I thought it'd share.

I put the bullets in a ziploc bag, pour on some lube, close the bag, and knead it until the lube is thoroughly applied. It coats the inside of the bag, and all the bullets in a minute. Clean, easy, and fast. I open the bag, dump the bullets out on paper plates (also used for targets) and let them dry.

~Bazoo

Leave room for additional boolits in the bag. Incase ti is a little heavy, add extra boolits to use up the extra lube.
Tried my first use of 45-45-10 today from Larsen's. Should be dry tomorrow.

Shiloh

I dont fill the bag totally full. In a quart bag, probably about 2 inches worth in the bottom.

i may try tumble lube again. tried before and did it wrong becouse it came out thick and never totally dried . i mixed the lee alox with mineral spirits i think anyway. got the ratios off this or another sight not sure witch. i have a couple tumble lube molds and lee makes a couple more i would like but only in tumble lube. so may give it another go. the plastic bag seems like it would work good.

I mostly use JPW. I'll put some in a little cup with a cover that I brought home from Olive Garden, put in a bunch of boolits, put the cover on and turn it sideways. I'll roll it like that until I'm satisfied and then dump the boolits out on my bench. It's plywood and the JPW is good for it. I'll stand the coated boolits up using a needle nose pliers in a nice little area about 10 in each line until they are all nice and neat, then find something else to do for the next 24 hours or so. If I size them with a Lee sizer I'll repeat the process. I'm retired, I have the time.....

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Originally Posted by Tom W.

I mostly use JPW. I'll put some in a little cup with a cover that I brought home from Olive Garden, put in a bunch of boolits, put the cover on and turn it sideways. I'll roll it like that until I'm satisfied and then dump the boolits out on my bench. It's plywood and the JPW is good for it. I'll stand the coated boolits up using a needle nose pliers in a nice little area about 10 in each line until they are all nice and neat, then find something else to do for the next 24 hours or so. If I size them with a Lee sizer I'll repeat the process. I'm retired, I have the time.....

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This works well for me too on 38 & 45 boolits.!

I might mention, that I size the bullets before I lube them. One coat works good for me in 45 auto.

Yep, squishing lube and boolits in a plastic bag works quite well. BTDT. Now I dip lube; hold a bullet by the nose and dip into alox or 45-45-10 and set them on the base on a piece of wax paper or alum. foil. No mess on the nose...

That's the main reason I don't like to tumble lube. I do so because I have to. Even sparingly it builds up on the seating die. I just never bought a .309 or.310 sizing die for my LAM II but I have one from Lee that I bought when I first started casting.

I have tried dipping when I bought my RD mold. It's a lot easier to hold than the Lee that I cast.

Tweezers...:mrgreen:

I have a set of precision pliers that I keep i the shed now.....I think there are 6 different designs. Got them at Wally world on a clearance table. I doubt the quality is great, but they serve a purpose.

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Originally Posted by Tom W.

That's the main reason I don't like to tumble lube. I do so because I have to. Even sparingly it builds up on the seating die. I just never bought a .309 or.310 sizing die for my LAM II but I have one from Lee that I bought when I first started casting.

I have tried dipping when I bought my RD mold. It's a lot easier to hold than the Lee that I cast.

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If this is the case, YOU ARE USING TOO MUCH LUBE! If you are tumble lubing correctly, assuming you're using 45-45-10 or equivalent, the boolit should look like it has an almost invisible coat of varnish on it. After I lube and dry them, I put them in a tub and tumble them with a SMALL dab of Motor Mica, just enough to coat them. That's it! If the boolits are intended for my rifle loads, I put 2 coats of lube on, then the mica. After the 2nd coat the lube is a little more obvious but it should NEVER look like it was painted on! The single biggest problem guys have with T-L with ALOX products is using too much lube!

I used to TL using Alox in a plastic peanut butter jar. Still have the jar on a shelf.

I started using powder coat and never looked back. No smoke, no clean-up. Alox can really foul up a firearm.
It does work though, if you keep your velocity down and your alloy right.

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Originally Posted by centershot

If this is the case, YOU ARE USING TOO MUCH LUBE! If you are tumble lubing correctly, assuming you're using 45-45-10 or equivalent, the boolit should look like it has an almost invisible coat of varnish on it. After I lube and dry them, I put them in a tub and tumble them with a SMALL dab of Motor Mica, just enough to coat them. That's it! If the boolits are intended for my rifle loads, I put 2 coats of lube on, then the mica. After the 2nd coat the lube is a little more obvious but it should NEVER look like it was painted on! The single biggest problem guys have with T-L with ALOX products is using too much lube!

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This ain't my first rodeo....But perhaps I wasn't clear.

I learned the hard way back in the '70's about putting too much LLA into the cool whip tub. I know that after tl with LLA it should look like I forgot to put some in ... And I have a tub of mica, as well.
I have come to prefer the JPW over mule snot or any mixture that contains it.
But my real preference is WLL Carnauba Red. If I have to apply it with my fingers I will...

And I don't want to pan lube...

All of the above tumble lube methods are fine, but in my estimation show much laziness and a definite lack of precision.
That said, I will happily tell the CORRECT way to do it.
Each bullet is placed in a lathe, and spun at EXACTLY 103.58 RPM's, and allowed a minimum of 37-1/3 minutes of free spin, to stabilize.
During this free spin time, I heat my 45/45/10 to precisely 111-13/16 degrees!
Now comes the important part! PLEASE READ CAREFULLY!!!.........
Slow the lathe down to EXACTLY 88.88 RPM's, and get the lube uncovered and ready to apply.
Now, with a single hair plucked from the scrotal region of a field mouse, dip into lube, and apply to the bands ONLY, with exactly 7 single stripes, to each band! And be SURE no stripe is touching another! The spacing between stripes is not as important as the fact they do NOT overlap! Once all bands are striped, speed lathe up to 245.76 RPM's and allow to free spin/dry for 18 to 21 minutes depending on air temperature and relative humidity. Once dry you are DONE! See that? nothing to it, now onto the next boolit.
It may sound like a lot of prep but I assure you the accuracy rewards are WELL worth the effort! Try it and you will be hooked! Please let us know how it works out for you.
Safe and happy shooting!
MagLvr

I do believe you forgot about obtaining the ear wax from the right ear of a left handed Swiss yodeler that hunts lemmings with a rubber band.....

Hi Tom:
No, I didn't forget, in all honesty I thought (or was hoping, anyhow) that was pretty much common knowledge, to anyone into reloading. :-)