Anyone know if the Forster Hollow-Pointer tools work with the Lyman Universal Trimmer?
On this note - which are best, Lyman or the Forster ?
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Anyone know if the Forster Hollow-Pointer tools work with the Lyman Universal Trimmer?
On this note - which are best, Lyman or the Forster ?
The only part that must "fit" is the shank of the drill into the receiving end of the turning shaft.
I believe that the Forster is different than the Lyman. I know that the pilots aren't compatible.
All of my turning/trimming/reaming tools are Forster.
PepeRay
Not to start a "what is best" feud but having had both Lyman and Forster, I find the Forster more repeatable and capable of precise trimming. At present, I have parted company with my Lyman and RCBS tools infavor of Forster. The Forster hollowpointer will not work with the Lyman trimmer.
I have both. Forster
Have to say I like Forster. Sold the Lyman.
Thank you folks.
Found a Forster with #1 collet and #27 pilot in dirty but mechanically perfect state in a pawn shop for $5...Hollow Pointer kit on the way. How deep to drill for 9mm? :D
Nothing is perfect for all tasks so it's really not a question of "best", they are somewhat different and each offers different advantages. Versatility counts, some prefer one and some prefer the other.Quote:
Originally Posted by SniderBoomer
On a purely "precise" scale, it's the Forster. On the "easy/fast" to use scale (with perfectly acceptable accuracy) it's Lyman's Universal. Both makers offer a small variety of optional gimmick parts that make them capable of much more than just case trimming: chamfering/deburring, primer pocket/flash hole reamers and uniformers, inside/outside neck reamers, etc.
However it's done, hollow pointing cast bullets is an attractive thought that is much better in the idea than the practice. It's hard to get them to preform consistently and that's why we have few HP molds and only one HP tool. Slow bullets don't expand at all; high velocity cast bullets must be hard and hard cast alloys just don't expand very well.
22 lr are slow and expand!
There are other ways to get your cast boolits to expand.
What would work is to have the nose of pure lead and the body of harder lead.
There are a couple ways to do this. One is to cast the boolit of pure lead. Cut of the nose at some point on the ogive of the bullet. Some experimenting on how much you cut off can effect how much expands.
Put these cut off pieces back in the mold. Fill the mold with a harder alloy. Leave a good puddle on the sprue plate. Now heat the mold up till the sprue remelts.
As you heat the mold the soft nose melts and settles to the nose. The body of the bullet melts and settles against this soft nose. This melting and settling bonds the body and nose into one boolit.
Now you can left the mold cool till the sprue hardens, then release the boolit. You can water drop if you want. This won't effect the nose but will harden the body.
Another is to use a small dipper to pour the pure lead in the mold then quickly top off with the harder alloy.
Either ay can take some time figuring this out.
You don't have to make many this way. How many will you use hunting. For load development you can use your regular alloy, then load the Soft points for testing on wet paper or water jugs, or even ballistic gel.
Once you figure out your method it won't be so hard to make more.
I haven't tried these methods yet, I have just read about them.
I plan on trying it out.
Leo
just drill a hole deep enough and a bit undersize of a BB and press fit the BB in this cavity and it opens nicely even a low velocity