Paper Question

Hi guys.

I am going to finally start PP for my Sharps.
Staples had some vellum available locally. 25% rag or 100% rag?
Which is better?
I was hoping to find some thinner paper that will work with the sizing Dies I have handy.
If the vellum isn't available that thin will regular tracing paper of the proper thickness work fine?
I've been hung up on starting this because of the confusion with paper but the more I read the more it seems people use just about anything and seem to make it work.
Thanks guys and gals!

I use both 25% rag and tracing paper from Staples in my 45-70.

I also print the template from MarlinOwners on them.

The tracing paper doesn't like to feed thru my printer, the vellum does.

The tracing paper boolits shoot better than the vellum.

Jump in, try 'em all !!

Ok good info thank you.
I got some 100% vellum and some tracing paper from office max.
I'll check staples for some 25%

Buckshot has a thread of all the different papers that can be used for patching.

Vellum is too strong. Since you are in the smokeless patching room I assume you are using smokeless powder? If so, that 15# green bar tractor feed paper works great. If you can't find any, even though it is too thick you can get away with the common 20# laser printer paper. Size bullet to .451", patch up so it is a snug slip fit in a fired case. Depending on how big your chamber is, you'll see if your paper will work or not.

-Nobade

My usual practice is to use 100% rag drafting vellum, usually .0025 thick. It has excellent wet strength and good stretchability and shrinkage on drying when patching strips are cut from the short edge of the E-size sheet (available at art supply stores or online). The paper has already been stretched during manufacture along the long edge and there won't be any shrinkage on drying if you cut them from the long edge, in my experience. Anyway, I needn't be concerned with being ham-handed when stretching it on or rolling it down to tighten. I cut drafting vellum .060-.080 short and stretch them on so the ends will meet, wipe the last .25" with a smidge of wood glue, roll it down and fold the .1" extra over the heel rather than go with the twisted tail. No tail or bump to damage the base on seating or firing, that way. They are very tight when dry. Confetti or strips when fired.

The 25% rag papers are noticeably more delicate when wet and won't tolerate much tension. I spray them lightly with water from a pumper bottle to dampen them and preserve some strength, rather than dipping them. This also holds true for bond and tracing papers. Mostly, I cut those to a length which can be rolled on and the ends meet with no more stretching than rolling them (on that drawer liner stuff) gives it.

Some folks are adamant about using a steeeep angle to cut the patch to, like 45 deg making a patch that is diamond-shaped. I've not found that necessary or desirable. IIRC, a 15 deg angle is a tighter twist than any barrel out there, so I wrap opposite the twist and go with that. I've also cut patches with square ends and they work fine. By definition, a straight seam will cross a land at some point. Good luck with your efforts. Keep us posted.