Lee TL358-148-WC

I have a Lee TL358-148-WC. I bought a .358 sizing push through Lee die. For the time being, these will be shot out of a 38 special Ruger LCR.

I have a ton of Hodgdon Clays powder. Ideally I'd like to load these using Clays. I have a couple questions. Hodgdon lists a charge of 2.3-2.5 for HBWC. I understand that the DEWC that the Lee drops won't be subject to the same limits that the HBWC is. I understand that if you push HBWC too fast, the HB could separate from the top of the bullet.

However I am a bit concerned as Clays is a pressure sensitive powder. I want to err on the side of seeking advice before loading it. I thought that HBWC allowed for more room for powder in the case. Will this result in pressures that are too high with that same load in DEWC as opposed to HBWC?

Also, where should I crimp these? For the most part these bullets seem fairly symmetrical. I am not positive if it matters which end is the top vs bottom. I don't see a crimp grove, just a bunch of TL grooves.

Would I be able to push these at +P velocities? I don't see loads listed for WC for +P. I see a few vihtavuori recipies in Modern Reloading. An older version of the book includes some 357 mag recipes for several powders. The pressures, velocities and charge weights listed in the first edition of Modern Reloading are higher than what is listed in the newer books.

There is good data in the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook for the 148 Grain WC which should do well with your choice of bullet. The 148 gr WC is usually seated flush with the case mouth so why would there be a crimp groove? Being seated to the case mouth, there is very little space within the case so you do not want to hot rod the load because there will be extreme pressure build up with very small charge variations.

Do you think it wise to work with +P loads in the light weight Ruger LCR?

I wouldn't shoot a lot of +P but I would consider it a bit if I were to carry them. Does Lyman 4 list clays? I didn't see it in 3 but I am not sure when that powder came out. I think 3 is from 1980.

Yes, Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook #4 does list Clays for the 38 special 148 grain WC cast bullets.

Thanks, I'll have to pick up a copy then.

2.3 start 742fps 12,200psi. 2.7 max 868fps 16,600psi. 1.265” col. This is for a saeco #052, ought to be pretty close.

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Originally Posted by Wheelguns 1961

2.3 start 742fps 12,200psi. 2.7 max 868fps 16,600psi. 1.265” col. This is for a saeco #052, ought to be pretty close.

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The above info is correct but you still need to get a Lymans Cast Bullet Handbook #4 ....there is a lot of good information in that book . The #3 and #4 Manuals are usually my first go to references when loading cast. Read it , cover to cover...you will learn at least 10 years of stuff the easy way .
Me , being not to bright, learned a lot the hard way but after getting the Lyman Manual learned much more the easy way .

You can crimp the double ended TL design in one of the upper lube grooves or seat them flush. I like to crimp in a top or second groove , it seems accuracy is a little better like that .
Gary

I will pick up a copy of that book. I really enjoy reading about reloading and casting.

I have this mold and the Lyman equivalent. I actually seat mine like a stubby SWC, crimped in the last groove at the top of the boolit. My fave load for these is 3.1 grains Bullseye with a Federal primer, clocks 712 fps out of my S&W 637 and super accurate. I tried Clays up to the published max with a 150 grain SWC. It shot fine, but had less velocity than an equivalent Bullseye load. I think 3.4 grains Bullseye was 50 fps faster than 2.8 grains Clays. I'm going to try Accurate Nitro 100 next.

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Originally Posted by gwpercle

The above info is correct but you still need to get a Lymans Cast Bullet Handbook #4 ....there is a lot of good information in that book . The #3 and #4 Manuals are usually my first go to references when loading cast. Read it , cover to cover...you will learn at least 10 years of stuff the easy way .
Me , being not to bright, learned a lot the hard way but after getting the Lyman Manual learned much more the easy way .

You can crimp the double ended TL design in one of the upper lube grooves or seat them flush. I like to crimp in a top or second groove , it seems accuracy is a little better like that .
Gary

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I have started reading this book and I'm glad I've got it. It is a great read. There is really only about 100 pages aside from the recipes to read. So I think I am going to get through it before I cast anymore boolits. The parts for my PID came but I am going to hold off on that too. Reading this stuff is just so relaxing and informative.

just add a few things. you probably don't need to size them, i have that mold and the TL158, still haven't bought a sizer yet for 38 cal. and as others said basically consider the top grove the normal seat depth. for me i couldnt get them stable in a snub when the lead was soft near pure atleast in loads that weren't low power, the rifling just smears groves in the lead without fully spinning. so i water drop a low antimony alloy for wadcutters now. and for which end sprue end down looks better sprue end up may shoot better cause the base is important just try both and see if it matters for you.

I am powder coating everything I am casting so I figured it would be best to get a sizer for everything.

ah I see that probably fixes most of what I said

still appreciate the input. these will be range lead so i suspect probably about BHN 10.

Range lead will work for these no problem. That's what I use for all my handgun loads excepting full house 357 loads. For those I add a gas check.
You seem to be on the right track here.

I easily shoot 1K of those with 3.0 grs. bullseye. I was using it even for cowboy action. Tumble lube smokes a wee bit indoors but other wise is easy and fast.