Drop of 'Super glue' under my pb checks?

So I realize pb checks aren't the perfect solution, but I need enough gc bullets to build a .45 Colt hunting load for my Blackhawk. I have some alum 'pop can' pb checks coming. I am shooting for 1200 fps with either the 45-270saa or the NOE 45-255rfp cast pretty soft, maybe 9.5- 10 bhn. My plan was to only size the very bottom band to .452, put a tiny bit of 'Superglue' in the check, then run them thru a slightly larger sizer with lube. I have a RCBS Lam II with Tac1 lube. Am I missing something? Other suggestions? With a check, I was hoping to use a softer alloy, than I think I should use with plain base boolets, running the same velocity.
Thanks, hc18flyer

At 1200 fps I would not bother with gas checks at all. I never use check in handguns, I will work with alloy or trying different powder/primers to get the results I want. Plain base boolits, no chamfers on the base.

Before you go to a bunch of extra trouble you should give your loads a try with plain-based and with the same boolit gas checked with the pb checks made by just checking the boolit in the size die like normal. I just got back from a range trip today where I did comparison shooting and the newly checked boolits shot significantly tighter than the pb boolits, and this was in a load which has been my standard for that revolver for 25 years now (1200 fps out of a .357). The pb checks I got from n.h. Schmidt seem to be on pretty danged tight without benefit of super glue -- run through a .357 size die in a Star.

I got the checks to make boolits for shooting at higher velocities in my Rossi rifle, but my little test showed me that maybe it'll be worth using them for the revolver also. This surprised me-- I had always been of the same opinion as PaulG about the pb boolits in a revolver.

Don't overlook dental wax either. You can get sheets of .060" dental wax cheap on fleabay, you cookie cutter them into a flared and charged case using a piece of wood or plastic to press them in and cut them, then seat the boolit normally. I have used these with magnum loads and they work fairly well. For what you want to do, they are certainly worth a try. Keep the alloy and the Tac1 as they are. Size to fit your cylinder throats or have them reamed to fit the boolit if they aren't big enough to slide a .452" through them with finger pressure.

I'll often lay out 20-25 checks in a row and then put a speck of epoxy in each one and then seat and size. (epoxy gives a bit more working time than Superglue) I don't size anything before hand, I just press the boolit on the checks, then immediately run them backwards through a push thru sizer, then after an hour or so, I'll start back at the front of the pile with running them through the lubesizer as normal. The epoxy only needs about 5 minutes and it's ready before I go back through lubing.
I do this with the pop can checks and also with my own Pat Marlin checks. I mostly do it because I'll often check, size and lube and then store in bags and the checks will get knocked off otherwise. I don't just check the ones I want to load, but make a good rainy day of doing a bunch of them at once. If you were going to load as soon as you checked and lubed, you might not need any glue at all.

I ran them through a lee sizer back end first and didn't have any problems with them coming off.

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Originally Posted by PaulG67

At 1200 fps I would not bother with gas checks at all. I never use check in handguns, I will work with alloy or trying different powder/primers to get the results I want. Plain base boolits, no chamfers on the base.

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Good advice. I went through the gc thing on 45 Colt. Now all I gc is my 45 carbine . The pistols don't need them. You don't need to load a 44 mag load in a 45 Colt. Keep it around 1100-1200 and you can kill anything in the lower 48.

Put gas checks on plain bass bullets all the time. Run the powder coated bullet thru Lee sizing die first and run the bullet with the gas check thru the Lee die base first. The powder coat and gas check will keep the barrel very clean with several hundred rounds fired at the gun club. I make the gas checks its gas check makers I make in my shop. Cast a lot of bullets with an automated Master Caster. My wife and I shoot around 800 rounds per month thru several hand gun.

Bruce B Softpoints, at 1200 FPS in 45 Colt gas checks on a well-fit bullet are superfluous. I run SAECO #446 in my Win 73 44/40 to 1300 FPS all the time--no leading issues. Nose portion is a donor-bullet pure-lead #257420, base/drive portion is 92/6/2. These will be my deer loads this season, 14.5 grains of 2400 to do the lifting.

13 shopping days until the deer opener.

If you need to use gas checks, buy a mold for a gc bullet......there is no way that I would sit there gluing gc's onto the bottom of bullets...it's so easy with the Star, press down handle and the bullet gets it's gc crimped on straight, bullet sized and lubed, dropped into a box.

100 each 45-270SAA and 45-255rfn cast at 9bhn, checked, sized and lubed. Ready to start loading Tuesday night. The SAA will get 18.5 grains of Aliant 2400 and the rfn will get about 17.8 grains of 2400. Shooting for 1150-75 fps. On Sunday I shot some 270SAA over 18.5 grains of Accurate # 9, almost 1300 fps, WOW what a handful! I may try and back that down some, see if accurate ? hc18flyer

Maybe next year I can get the LBT 275 grain owc checked mold? Or maybe one of the NOE molds for my nm Blackhawk? Thanks for your replies, hc18flyer