Hi. I am juan. From spain. I have a magma replica machine made in germany and now i have a problem with the sprue cutter. With alloy lead have no problems, but usin pure lead to powder coating... it happens ......
Can you help me?
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Hi. I am juan. From spain. I have a magma replica machine made in germany and now i have a problem with the sprue cutter. With alloy lead have no problems, but usin pure lead to powder coating... it happens ......
Can you help me?
What does the other side of the sprue plate look like?
Is the cut lead smearing over the sprue hole just enough to hold the sprue there?
If so...maybe a little more time added between pour and cut?
Good riddle here, I like riddles.
Juan,
You need some lubrication on the top of the sprue cutter so the sprue can release. What I use on both my Master Caster and Bullet Master is commercial cooking spray (brand name PAM in the U.S.), mixed with denatured alcohol. I use a generic brand, since they all work the same and the cost is much less ($3.99 USD per can). Don't use it full strength, as it will get into the cavities and cause wrinkling of the bullets until it wears off.
With the mold closed, and bullets in the cavities and the sprue cutter in the pour position, give the top of the sprue cutter a light spray of the cooking spray/alcohol mixture and let it dry for a few seconds. This will allow the sprue to fall off freely and no long stick to the sprue cutter. I do this about every 100 pours, or so. I also do this with bullets in the cavities and the sprue cutter in the open position to lube the top of the molds so lead doesn't stick to them, but be careful not to get the spray into the cavities.
Hope this helps.
Fred
I have an automated Master Caster and have noticed I get more "riders" or bullets or sprues that don't fall out if I let the mold run cold. One option may be to run just a bit faster and keep more heat into the mold and sprue plate. Also, the suggestions to use a good mold lube is helpful, but sometimes you need that last little tweak to make things run 100% reliable.
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If I wait longer since the spill and the cut costs a lot to open the sprue cutter. the bottom part of the sprue cuttwr is perfect. and the mold is properly greased.
If the sprue pocket are showing radial tool marks they may be creating a mechanical lock on the sprue. A wood dowel with the end cut to match the angle and polish thism up with some fine lapping compound and or flitz to a smooth surface, this allows the angle of the sprue hole to lift the sprue and rock it loose when it cuts.
I get it too on my automated MC, i use a drop of 3 in 1 oil on the back of the sprue plate every 100 or so drops. I find that i need to scrape built up lead from the sprue cutter every 100 or so, i scrape it off and lightly oil the plate and go again.
I have "fixed" the issue before by running it faster and allowing it to get real hot, hot enough so that the smears wipe off due to being at almost melting point. The issue is, the cast come out frosty and some deform as they are still quite soft. As i hi-tek, the frosty isn't an issue, but the deformed projectiles are an issue.
Rub the sprue plate with powdered graphite or rub with a soap stone pencil used for marking steel in welding shop. Either will prevent lead from sticking.
I may need to give the graphite trick a go. See if it works for me
Do you smoke the entire mould inside and the sprue cutter on both sides? Seems to work for me.
Smoke gets everywhere when i hit it with an oxy flame, everything goes black, it just wears off every 100 or so cycles