Anyone done this? I suspect the ejector or extractor would catch the rim ok. What would something like this cost? I don't even have a barrel to try it on.
Any other interesting similar ideas?
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Anyone done this? I suspect the ejector or extractor would catch the rim ok. What would something like this cost? I don't even have a barrel to try it on.
Any other interesting similar ideas?
A true lining of the barrel with a 38 cal barrel in a .410 wouldn't leave much wall thickness on the liner. .410 - .375 = .035 total or .018 on a side. Better might be a stub job where the barrel is cut off at front of lug or just ahead of it bored out and threaded in. Then contoured to blend in. this leaves a much better wall thickness and integrity of the barrel. Another issue will be pressures between what the 310 is built fo and the 38-55 rounds operating pressures.
I wondered if the wall would be too thin. Should start with a 20g barrel instead?
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I'd be more concerned about the action safely handling the pressure(s), since H&R SB-1 actions (shotguns) were cast of a softer alloy than the stronger SB-2 actions.
I'd just buy .38-55 H&R Buffalo classic & be done with it.
http://buffaloclassic.tripod.com/
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It would be going on an older 30-30 frame. I would be buying another barrel to play with.
Side question, will the versa pak 22lr barrel work on any centerfire frame? I know it has to be possibly fitted to the frame. I am assuming that was the designed intention.
Quote:
Originally Posted by pietro
Well not exactly "softer alloy", it's actually even worse than that. The SB-1 actions are cast iron while the SB-2 actions are cast steel (an 8620 alloy casting I believe it was). Those steel castings may not be much (if any) harder than the cast iron but they are WAY stronger than the SB-1 iron casting versions!
The 38-55 Target Model and the Buffalo Classic aren't made any more, but can be found from time to time on auction sites.Quote:
Originally Posted by pietro
A Contender is a much better rifle with an excellent trigger and many other barrels available. You might want to check it out before going down a converted shotgun rabbit hole.
Actually with the SB-2 receiver and a properly lined or stubbed (better!) barrel the H&R would be an excellent choice! Unless I'm wrong I think the OP already has the H&R receiver and plans on getting another barrel for it, quite a number of successful H&R conversions out there so this is not exactly uncharted territory and those H&R rifles have been proven to be exceptionally strong. Personally I think the 38-55 would be an excellent choice being a moderate pressure round with well known accuracy and the SB-2 Handi receiver would handle a conversion like this with ease.
Lots of expert opinions from a select few that work /collect and do everything you can think of To an H+R at GREYBEARD FORUMS) Ed
The 12 gauge shotgun has about 5,000 pounds of bolt thrust, about the same as a 45-70. Most black powder cartridges can be installed on a modern made 12 gauge. Even modern made smokeless factory loads would be safe as they are loaded to the same pressure as the black powder rounds. A 38-55 or 32-40 would have less bolt thrust. May not be safe on the old small frame H&R 410 but the later frames for the 410 are the same as the 12 gauge. Liner diameter for the 38-55 is 39/64 or 17/32. Would be better to do a stub job or make a new lug and barrel. I'm not sure but I believe the older 30-30 frames were the same as the shotgun. I have one from the 60s and don't see any difference other than firing pin diameter.
I have considered the contender route. And I prefer the old straight grip and no transfer bar on my old 30-30. I also have this ridiculous love affair with the 38-55. I already own three Marlins in 38-55, a Ballard #5, an 1881 and an 1893, but I keep wanting more. Definitely not needing more. I find myself daydreaming about other rifles chambered in the lovely round. Stubbing into a .410 is probably the easiest route as I think the .410 extractor will probably work for it. I do watch the auction site, but man they want alot of cabbage for them barrels now. Thanks for all the input, I love the discussions on here.
I would have to do some measuring to make sure but think on a .410 action / extractor that it might work with a 40-65 or 40-70. But with the 38-55 it might need to be built up some and recut or a new one made. This is my initial thought here as I think the extractor for a 410 may pop over the 38-55 rims at times. Extractors for the single shot **** guns aren't normally a real big deal to make or modify, but they need to be right.
An old 410 barrel probably has an ejector, not extractor. I don’t know if that changes anything though.
You have to remove the stock to see the difference between a SB1 and SB2 receiver. There are pictures in this thread: https://www.go2gbo.com/forums/108-h-...ease-read.html
For the ejector, a 30-30 would be the right size but the 410 could be welded and recut.
Jedman
IMO I would use a 20 gauge as the donor.Quote:
Originally Posted by pull the trigger
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You want a bigger barrel. I did a stub on a Rossi single shot, sold as 410 and 22lr barrel. There is not much meat left once drilled out to thread a barrel in. A 45 colt worked, barely, stick w standard pressure stuff. So you really want a 20ga as a donor.
Thanks guys.
I had a buddy that used a Savage 220 single shot Hammerless in 20 g to do a stub job. He had a new 1919 Brn
MG barrel in 30/06. He rechambered to 30/40 Krag and he ended up bushing FP hole and using smaller dia pin.
Because primers were flowing into firing pin hole. He did have extractor work too. After he got bugs out of FP situation he shoots the snoot out of it.