BT Sniper's One-Step die REVIEW BY NEW SWAGER (me)
Well, first things first. A little background. My understanding is that Brian (BT Sniper) got a swage die from C-H, and liked it's design, but saw a few ways the execution could be improved. He found he could order just the parts he needed from C-H and then make the rest himself. His components are very well made, very well polished, and very well hardened (but more on this later). My point being, you can actually see what components are original C-H and what Brian has done. It's noticable without even using the tool.
As far as ordering goes: IF (notice that's a "big" IF) C-H has the components in stock which Brian needs, he can get these dies out pretty quick at current demand level. From the time Brian posted he was thinking of doing a run of these until I had my die was less than a month. Some of that delay was on my end, because he had to wait for my check to get to him... So, IF Brian can get the components from C-H, he is very quick.
The price he charges is also very reasonable. Shipping is included, and when you consider what the components from C-H cost, the customer is getting an awesome deal. (Premium/Custom components for a shade over what the standard tool costs, which won't last as long.)
Now, to the good stuff. Using the die! I want to qualify this by saying my typical learning style is to fumble through doing something, THEN read the instructions, and then go back and cross up what I learned through experience with improvements I could glean from the instructions. Eventually I get to doing it half-way good... :neutral: So, keep this in mind when looking at some of the following pictures and thoughts I give out.
Now, as far as the process goes:
The first step is to have Jackets and Cores. Jackets for the 44 Magnum One-Step Die I received are made from 40S&W cases. Cores are made from Lee 401-cal 175gr TC mould BOOLITs. (Cores may also be made from extruded lead wire or other objects which weigh the correct amount, but this is what was recommended, so this is where I started.)
First off, I had just a very few 40 S&W cases to use for jackets. I wound up with 64 "FC" headstamps that weighed close enough to each other to balance out the bullets at 250grs. So that is all the bullets I've done so far, wanting to use them for my "learning period"... I also got anxious while awaiting the arrival of my die and did some steps ahead of time. This isn't a problem for the most part, except, I decided to seat the cores into the "jackets" before I had any citric acid. This results in my bullets being dull instead of shiney. This is NO reflection on the die or Brian's work AT ALL. Most of these "jackets" weighed around 66-68grs.
Second, my cores worked well, but I have ideas... I had cast these up when I had a pot-full of soft alloy (50/50 WW/pure Pb), so they ended up weighing around 182-183grs. Somehow, even though they weigh the same, my cores are deeper than the samples that Brian sent. I'm planning on disecting some bullets later when I have access to a saw, but my guess right now is that the TL version of this mould is longer than my standard lube groove, OR Brian didn't seat his cores all the way to the bottom before running them through the die, which may mean there is a void space in the bottom. Disection will show the facts here. Now, as you will see in the photo, my cores did not come all the way to the front edge of the "jacket" after completing their trip through the one-step die. I think to fix this, I'm going to start adding some lead shot to the bottom of the case (jacket) before I seat the core. This will add weight to the bullet, but should also get the lead core to come up to even or just past the mouth of the jacket, which is where I want to be. I'm just guesing right now, buy I'm thinking a 270gr to 280gr bullet would be about right where I'd like to see the lead tip end up.
Brian's bullet (sample sent in the box with the die) is on the left, while mine is on the right:
http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/...pictureid=2758
Now, as far as the proper process. I've learned there is a distinct process to preparing to use these dies, and here it is:
1. Cast Cores - use pure lead up to as hard as wheelweights, but softer is always better. Softer means better expansion and easier working of the handle on the operator, and less strain on the equipment.
2. Clean cases - Before annealing, I think it helps to clean the cases by whatever means you want to do - vinegar wash, citric acid bath, tumbling, muriatic acid bath, etc. It's not absolutely necessary, but it makes for a better finished product.
3. Anneal cases - make sure you use a good process to avoid wasting time and money. The torch still works well, but I found setting the cases directly on the burner of the gas grill for 15-30 minutes (depending on how hot and how evenly your grill heats) works fine. I'm still working on using the fireplace, and others here have access to or acquired kilns which do an awesome job. Let the cases air cool, or if you're in a hurry, dump them in a pan of water to quench.
4. De-Tarnish cases - Now is the point in the process to get all the soot, discoloration, etc., off the cases. I've found, using lemonaide flavor Crystal Light (primarily citric acid), that the majority of cases clean up in 15 minutes, but some may take twice as long. Others with different products may chime in with how long those take.
5. Matching cores and jackets - I found a system after about 30 minutes of thinking. (Never said I was fast-smart, but I usually do figure stuff out; just give me some time... :mrgreen: ) I found a typical (can't use average, cause the highs and lows will throw that number off from the cases of typical weight) weight for my cases and jackets. Then, I determined what weight goal I would like to end up at. Next, figure out what combination of your cores and jackets will get you to that weight. And, figure out how much of a variation you're willing to accept. Then, it's a simple matter of lining up cases (or cores) according to categories as wide as you're willing to accept weight swings on, and then writing down a figure on a slip of paper at the bottom of that row. Then, as you weigh the other component of the bullet (if you started off with jackets, like I did; then you're going to be weight cores), you match it up with the category that gets you near your goal weight. (This sounds more complicated in description, than it is in execution.)
I was able to stay within a .7gr variation. All 64 of my bullets weigh between 249.4grs and 250.1grs. Out of my lot of cases, I still have 5 that were too far under weight and about 15 that are over-weight. Unfortunately, I was too consistent of a cast boolit maker, and didn't have boolits for cores that were extra heavy (to match up with the lighter cases) or extra light (to match up with the heavier cases). But you can see the level of consistency which can be achieved.
6. Seating cores - This is an interesting process. As a reloader, having used a single-stage press, I'm used to doing one operation on all the cases, and then switching dies to do a second operation. NOT SO with seating cores.
I found that, even with fired cases, the brass was too narrow at the mouth to accept my cores. If you try seating cores like this two bad things can (and usually do) happen: First, you shave lead off the core, which messes up your weight-matching. Second, the core will tip, and when the seater bumps it, the (now soft from the annealing) case mouth will bend/swell outward forming what looks for all the world like a miniature pitcher spout. Then, your bullets end up like this:
http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/...pictureid=2759
So, the solution is to install your 40S&W (or in my case 10mm) bell-mouth die into the press along with a suitable shell-holder. Make sure when you adjust the bell-mouther, you don't make the bell too big. Again, look at the picture above... Then, insert a jacket (case), lower the handle to bell-mouth, and then raise the handle. Now for the weird part: DO NOT TAKE THE CASE OUT OF THE SHELL HOLDER. Leave it right there. Now, insert a core (cast boolit), nose-down onto/into the belled case mouth, and lower the handle AGAIN. It is VERY easy to feel the bullet get shoved down into the case and bump against the bottom. After raising the handle NOW you can take the case out. And you have a perfectly seated core inside the jacket:
http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/...pictureid=2757
7. Lube bullets - Another neat feature/benefit of ordering this die from BT Sniper is that it comes with a little tub of lube. It is Anhydrous Lanolin, and the tub is about the size of the little plastic cups you get at a restaurant when you ask for your salad dressing on the side. BUT, it's got just a TINY dab of lube in it. I'd say an ounce at most. Now, this looks very insufficient like you can only lube maybe 100 bullets with it, but I can assure you (and I was skeptical too) that this tiny amount of lube is sufficient for at least 500 bullets, probably more. I applied it like I do for my rifle cases. (Don't want too much or too little, right?) I put on a pair of rubber gloves, and dip the tip of on finger into the lube. (It's consistency is about the same as Vaseline.) Then I roll the jacket around between the tips of two fingers and thumb until it's thoroughly coated. This action also distributes the lube over the other two fingers, and I just keep picking up cases and rolling them in those three finger tips, until I can feel the roughness/surface of the case. Then, I know it's time to add more lube. I found that was about ever five to eight bullets. I also line them up in the order I lube them in a staging process to get them through the press faster. I like this, because when I put in a bullet with too much lube, it leaves some lube behind for the next, slightly-lighter-lubed bullets, and then this process starts all over ever 5-8 bullets. I had absolutely NO issues with hard, sticky, or difficult bullets doing it this way.
8. The One-Step Die - Finally! Remove the shell-holder from the ram and insert the bottom punch. Install the die in the top of the press. Brian ships these already set-up and tested in the same make and model press if you tell him what you've got. I know he can set them up for Rock Chuckers and Lee Classic Casts, and there may be others. His adjustments are dead-nuts-on as far as I can tell. I didn't have to do a darn thing other than start running bullets through.
The process is to stand a lubed, core-seated bullet on the bottom punch and raise the ram (lower the handle). Now, when you get close to inserting the bullet into the die, you want to feel with your finger tips that you've got it lined up right, less you might dent the case mouth. (I didn't experience this, because having dented my share of case mouths on sizing dies, and noting the bottom punch had no lateral guidance for the bullet jacket [which it should not - so that the bullet self-aligns with the die], I guided each and ever bullet in from the first one.)
Now lower the handle all the way to the stop. Yes, I said all the way to the stop... :-? It gets quite hard/heavy in the last 1/3 to 2/3 inch of travel of the ram. This is where the core is really getting moved around inside that jacket under many thousands of pounds of force. But, there is absolutely no need to add a breaker bar, stand on the handle or jump up and down on the handle.
While you're inserting the bullet into the die, you'll see the top punch extension coming out the top of the die. This is as it should be. After you've got the handle bottomed all the way out, raise it back up, and note that the bullet did not come out... This is where a hammer comes into play. (Or, if you swung it, a bullet ejector mechanism, but that's a story for another day.) I bought a 4-lb "drilling hammer" which is a small sledge hammer head on a very short, straight handle. It takes me on average, three whacks with that hammer to get the bullet out of the die. And, these are HARD whacks. Not standing up and swinging with both hands, but I'm using the force I use when pounding nails, but add to that the gravitational energy from a 4-lb head on the hammer, and you get the idea... Now, before you start hitting the top of the top punch extension, make sure you cup your hand under the die to catch the bullet, which normally pops out. I did have about 7-8 bullets that hung-up on the nose punch. It think this may be because my cores seat deeper into the case than Brians, but maybe not. I just don't have enough time and experimentation in on this die yet to determine this fully.
So, now, if you've followed the steps, you have a brand new, shiney 250gr (nominal) JHP with a RNFP overall profile.
http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/...pictureid=2755
.
http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/...pictureid=2756
Now, I didn't follow the steps exactly, so mine are rather tarnished, you can see. That's how I learn all-too-often -- by making mistakes, but shinyness isn't an insurmountable mistake.
I have a buddy who wants to use these in his Ruger Redhawk with his pistol permit this year, and so he'll get a bunch loaded to try.
So, was there anything problematic or troubling using this die? YES.
First off, on the 43rd bullet, I thought I broke the handle to my press and I about went off my reloading stool. As I was putting that last 1/2" of pressure to finish the bullet, the handle let go and went all the way down around as far as it would go. I wasn't hurt (except for my pride... :oops: ), and upon closer inspection I noted the bolt head which can be loosened to adjust the position of the handle on my Lee Classic Cast press had loosened enough to allow the gears to strip past each other. I didn't disassemble it all the way yet to check for damage, but after I re-tightened it (and re-adjusted the handle), the press went on to finish the remaining 21 bullets, and still feels quite firnly seated now. I think I know why the bolt loosened and it's related to the second problem:
Second, the hammering on the top punch to eject the finished bullet, causes a LOT of vibration on the bench. My bench is neither light nor small. I have four presses mounted on it (Dillon 650, Ponsness Warren progressive, Lee Classic Cast and Bonanza Co-Ax), and it's a full-size 4x8 w/ a layer of 2x12s, plus a top, and a half-shelf underneath and a 2x12 shelf running down the center on top. It's several hundred pounds. But, I had cases, shellholders, lubed bullets (waiting to go through the one-step die), allen wrenches and everything else that was loose on that bench bouncing, jiggling, vibrating, and sliding off the edge of the bench and onto the floor (sometimes)... :holysheep I think this level of vibration is what lead to the bolt loosening on the Classic Cast... Worst of all, though, I didn't think about my electronic scale. It was turned off and back against the shelf wall, but still only 20 inches or so from the press, and when I turned it back on to start weighing the finished bullets, the display started flashing all sorts of weird weights (with nothing on the scale pan) and wouldn't zero or level out. So.... Looks like I'm in the market for a new digital scale... I'll try to fix it later, but worst-case scenario is I'm getting a new one. (This one is 20 years old.)
So, in my "ways to do it different in the future" department -- I'm going to mount a single-stage press to a separate, extra-heavy bench just for swaging... Also, I'm planning to try adding about 15grs of lead shot in the bottom of the case to try to raise the lead HP core up to even with, or slightly above, the mouth of the jacket. I'm also going to do some work with my cannelure tool, but that's a different topic...
