Printable View
We would very much appreciate it if anyone here can explain in detail for dummies how to re-time a Pietta Colt clone SAA?? The second and third 'clicks' occur right together and bind the cylinder when attempting to reload. I think sumpin' got bent when a borrower 'fanned' it!
You need to get hold of Jerry Kuhnhausen’s book on repairing and maintaining Colt SAA revolvers. It contains clear instructions and drawings of what happens as the hammer is cocked and how to time the unlocking, carry-up and relocking of the cylinder by the bolt and pawl.
A search will bring up many sources on timing the Pietta clone. There is also another book "Gunsmithing Guns of the Old West" or something like that.
Kuhnhausen's books on amazon.ca cost over CDN$100: we were hoping someone here was knowledgeable. and would chime in.
theres a guy on yuotube that gos into detail on timing but I cant remember his name. I think hes a member here as well...
SA revolvers are pretty simple. I don't know the proper names of everything but there's a piece that rides on your hammer that holds the bolt down until it's nearly at full cock. If the little ear is broke off or damaged the bolt will drop before it's time. When the gun is in half cock the bolt ( cylinder stop ) should be held down letting the cylinder rotate in one direction as far as you want. As you bring the hammer back further the bolt drops and falls into the bolt stop ( cylinder slot ) when it gets to the right spot.
Have you took the gun apart yet?
No, we haven't, but you have given us an idea what to look for. TYVM!! Will report.
The cylinder locking bolt is falling (3rd click) at the same time as the hammer is engaging in the half-cock notch (second click).
The Half cock position should still keep the bolt retracted so the cylinder spins freely so the loading sequence can be done easily.
Then as you pull further from there,,that 3rd click is the bolt then dropping to engage the cylinder as it rotates towards complete turn. 4th click is full cock.
Either the arm of the cylinder bolt that engages the hammer cam is damaged,, allowing it to drop too early.
Or the tiny cam insert on the hammer itself is damaged and that is allowing the bolt to drop early.
..or a combination of both.
I'd also carefully inspect the trigger tip for damage as well as the hammer notches. The hand can take very little abuse in the Colts. The ratchet system and timing, bolt ect are simple but they don't just fall together like a modern day tupperware gun.
Many parts are fairly fragile in the SAA and any TV action Western gun play activity can cause damage to them.
Guns used for Fast Draw competition usually have specially tuned actions, undertimed to take the extreme speed in account as well as alloy cylinders, extra thick bolts and reinforced lockup points, ect.
There's nothing inside there as far as any built in adjustment that can be made. Damaged parts have to be replaced and fitted to existing. It's not something to do over the intronet,,at least I can't
2152hq is right. More than likely the bolt arm "shaved" some of the hammer cam off. The springs in these actions are usually quite over tensioned and "fanning" them really causes a wreck. A competition gun (a successful one) is purpose built or tuned for the kind of treatment it's going to see. A stock S.A. is, in many instances, just barely capable of being a steady plinker!
Be careful what you watch on YouTube. There's one guy in particular that shows you exactly how NOT to tune a S.A. At least he warns you to get lots of extra parts! Lol!!!
The best (in my opinion) instructional book is the one already mentioned by Jerry Kuhnhausen on the S.A.A. Colt.
Good luck.
Mike
Yep take it apart and look for damage. Fanning is the quickest way to screw up a SA that I know of. It could be the hammer, the hand or the spring. Once you find the damage, replace the part. This design is simple and has allot of tolerance, most parts are drop in.
Hint: Don't loan or even let anybody shoot your firearms. Tell them to go buy their own. Fools abound!