Winchester loading tong tool for 32 W.C.F.

I picked this up on spec. and I cant figure out how it works. At first I thought it was complete but now I'm not so sure. The only loose (separate) part is the decapping pin/holder/neck expander. I presume the primer is balanced on the case while pressing it in to place.
This evidently does nothing else as there are no means of extraction from that chamber but for pushing it out with another tool, provided elsewhere. Boolet seating and crimping are still a mystery here. There is no model number on the tool, patent dates are Oct.20,1874.Nov.7,82. The design of the tool precludes opening it past 90* and in spite of its excellent condition, is extremely stiff in operation.
Looking for help and honest opinion, am I wasting my time? - - -Pepe Ray

A picture would help, but it sounds like you may have the version that looks sorta like an old Ideal tong tool(??)

If yes, you decap the fired case using the spud you mention and placing the case in the main chamber to push out the old primer and round out any dings in the case mouth. As you reopen the tongs, a plate should lift the case and decapping spud out enough to be lifted out with your fingers. The decapping pin may be stuck in the flash hole... don’t tap it against the tool or you will leave those ugly peck marks seen on so many of these tools. Use some other hard surface to tap against lightly. Priming is done by placing the case in the second hole and pressing the primer into place by closing the tool again. When the primer is in place, the primed case should drop out when the tongs are opened. Next, using means of your choice (originally it was a brass dipper) pour in the powder charge and place a bullet in the case mouth. Finally, place the nearly completed cartridge back into the main chamber aligned so the bullet is up, and close the tongs one last time to finish loading the round. Repeat all steps above with more cases.

Froggie

Thanks for the reply. I'll try to get some pics posted ASAP, Any suggestions as to why the action should be so stiff?
Pepe Ray

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Originally Posted by Pepe Ray

Any suggestions as to why the action should be so stiff?
Pepe Ray

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A century of sitting with little to no use - clean, lube, use. Either it'll free up or you'll build up a great grip.:-D

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Originally Posted by Pepe Ray

Thanks for the reply. I'll try to get some pics posted ASAP, Any suggestions as to why the action should be so stiff?
Pepe Ray

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Rust & corrosion maybe?? Squirt WD-40 or PB Blaster liberally into the hinge from the edges then sit and work it back and forth for an hour or so while watching TV or something.

Froggie

If the tool has a mold, heat it up and use it. The 30-30 tool I discussed in another thread was also tight, but works great now that I cast about 100 bullets counting all the rejects. Probably 100 years of crude cooked out of the hinge.

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Originally Posted by Jkrem

If the tool has a mold, heat it up and use it. The 30-30 tool I discussed in another thread was also tight, but works great now that I cast about 100 bullets counting all the rejects. Probably 100 years of crude cooked out of the hinge.

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Good idea with the old Ideal tools, but the Winchester tool probably won’t have an integral mould... I’ve never seen one so equipped, at least. He’ll probably have to go with the “lube it and work it” technique. Wiping the whole thing thing down with a good lube and preservative would be a good idea... if you do have one of the Ideal type tools with integral moulds, keep oily stuff off of the mould face and especially out of the actual mould cavity!

Froggie

Since the Winchester mold was not included, that break in solution was not available. Although there is a very few rust spots on the grips, the general finish is amazingly clean. My GO TOO lube is ATF. I've been using it extensively for years with superior results. The action is easing up and I found a tutorial ie. U-tube, demonstrating the use of the very same tool (in 44WCF). Now I must decide whether to buy a 32WCF firearm or sell this fine tool. Decisions, decisions. Augusta Gun Show next week end. WHOOPS!! Its this Week end.
Well, thanks for all the help. It's great to have friends who know stuff. - - - Pepe Ray

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pepe Ray

Since the Winchester mold was not included, that break in solution was not available. Although there is a very few rust spots on the grips, the general finish is amazingly clean. My GO TOO lube is ATF. I've been using it extensively for years with superior results. The action is easing up and I found a tutorial ie. U-tube, demonstrating the use of the very same tool (in 44WCF). Now I must decide whether to buy a 32WCF firearm or sell this fine tool. Decisions, decisions. Augusta Gun Show next week end. WHOOPS!! Its this Week end.
Well, thanks for all the help. It's great to have friends who know stuff. - - - Pepe Ray

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No prob, Pepe Ray! This was a very easy discussion on the very group of topics for which this page of the forum was designed. Thanks for bringing it here and giving us the opportunity to chat about it. Good luck @ Augusta... maybe you'll get lucky and find a matching revolver and carbine in 32 WCF so you can use that tool a lot! :mrgreen:

Froggie

Well, the Augusta GS has come and gone. It was a great show, but was mostly a duplicate of the Lincoln show. The vendor who said he would bring his box of Ly-310 tools was not there. No tempting 32WCF firearm prospects either. Looks like I'll be dumping this Winchester tool when possible. Hope I can get my money back. - - Thanks gang, Pepe Ray

They don,t size the case just re-crimp the bullet into the case and you need to use either they bullet they cast or a factory spec bullet. They rely on a full charge of holy black to hold the bullet in place.

Did Ideal or Lyman ever catalog a boolet with the Winchester profile or where do we find a print that would picture such a boolet profile? Seems that a longer (heavier) boolet could compress the lesser charge to a useful degree. Google?
Pepe Ray

The Ideal 3118 was the standard Winchester profile for the .32-20. Lyman sells it now as the 311008.

I have a Winchester mold and it is identical to the Lyman 3118.

I, also, have a Lyman 3118 which I use for my Rug/Bisley/single Six, and Colt NP, 32 S&W. My crazy desire to load them on a tong tool has started this scramble and now I seem to be stuck. Oh well, perhaps there's enough time. It's interesting to read/discover just how many other "mad men" there are. :p

When I first started watching this thread, I thought you were referring to 32 Win Spl!

Page 9 of the swap thread shows a 32-20 tool up for swapping. It is old enough to have a mould on the end.