What would be a good home made lube for Muzzleloader bullets?
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What would be a good home made lube for Muzzleloader bullets?
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http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/...archid=1544328
Peruse through these and you should find what you need.
4 parts lanolin, 3 parts beeswax, 1 part canola oil. Patch lube.
Good morning Right at 55-45 Beeswax and Olive oil. This is my all purpose BP lube.
Mike in Peru
I've recently been using Dick Dastardly's Pearl lube. Equal parts by weight soy flakes, Crisco, and toilet bowl rings. I added some patchouli oil for good smell, now whenever I shoot it smells like a Grateful Dead show! I really like the lube though, it flows through my Lyman 45 just fine, works for black powder or nitro, and is super cheap to make.
I am 55 when I started hunting around 1960 with my grandpa. He hunted with a 36cal ML. if he could see a squrrial it was his. He used cut patches that had dots on them and Lard. I liked the smell when he would shoot. Makes me want to get a can of black and some bacon.
I was gonna ask on this. I am about ready to make some smoke at the range.
I cast up some R.E.A.L castings in both 45, and 50 for the wife and myself. Her first adventure in smokepoleing!
I am thinking about 55beeswax, 45 Crisco and olive oil.
Does Lithium grease do anything?
Good evening
My experience with BP and anything petrolium base is the petrolium causes a hard crusty coating in the barrel. It has been a long time since I have seen any lithiun grease and I do not remember what it is made of. But I do know I have never had any problem with Beeswax/olive oil keeping fouling soft. I use Cisco/beeswax in Illinois but crisco is imported here and EXPENSIVE.. but olive oil is cheap and I am happy with it.
Sounds like I have a game plan then.
Beeswax/Olive oil. I will use Crisco to stffen it.
Thanks.
if you want something fast and easy that works They sell a stuff called Wonder Lube in a squeeze tube that works good . Also with the REAL boolits I like the Bore Buttons. . I have run 50 loads and swap about every 10 bore is easy to clean next day.
Trust me you wont need the crisco to stiffen it. I use the beeswax and olive oil and it is usually stiff enough. It makes great lip balm also.:DQuote:
Originally Posted by docone31
Just beeswax and Olive oil.
That sounds too simple to be true!
I once made bullet lube from a receipe from Dixie Gun Works. Before the internet.
I ended up with a 2lb coffee can full of this stuff. I used it as boot treatment, leather treatment, my wife used it as lube for resilking pearl necklaces, I used as lube for my stone setting burrs. It was great.
It sounds like the stuff I am going to make is similiar.
I love it.
What happened to spit? Even more simple!:kidding:Quote:
Originally Posted by docone31
The lube is going on R.E.A.L castings. I plan on pan lubeing.
Besides, I am afraid if I spit, my dentures might beat me to the target!
Ha Ha! I'm glad I wasn't drinking anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by docone31
If target shooting round ball, spit patched.Quote:
Originally Posted by brennemanj83
If a round ball hunting load, most any non petroleum oil will work, such as olive, canola, vegetable, lard, (unsalted) etc.
In short, it ain't rocket science.
http://hstrial-rchambers.homestead.com/Index.html
For Mother Earthers, industry means, if it ain't green, clean, and inane, it won't be seen.
And I just blew coffee out my nose LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by docone31
Well, I made some.
I started with a small pan. I have this 5lb chunk of beeswax. I melted some into the pan. I let that cool down. From that point, I added olive oil. I reheated the wax and stirred. I thought I had added a lot of oil. Wrong. I let it cool to check. It was rock hard! I reheated it and added more. Still rock hard. I added lots more oil. I figuired I could always add beeswax. I reheated it. It got softer, but still too hard to wipe a patch, or rub on a R.E.A.L. casting. I reheated it and added oil. Better. I reheated it and added Crisco. Why? Brain fart. Back to reheating and more oil.
I finally got to where it is workable. If it got cooler here, I would need to add more oil.
I was impressed at the amount of oil I needed. I way underestimated the amount. About 50% is correct.
I appreciat the help on this.
It worked!!
To the range hopefully tomorrow.
Well doc, how'd it go? I have read the bw is not actually a lube, mostly just a lube carrier. I've been waiting 6 mths. for the report, couldn't stand the suspense anymore. (just kidding). I'm on the way to the store right now to get some bw. I think I'll try Emmert's recipe for an all purpose muzzleloader, percussion revolver lube. My bp guns are seasoned nice, like a good old frying pan. No petroleum products for me. I think. Water soluble machinist's oil isn't petro based, is it? That's for my moose milk.
It went real well!
I had to stiffen it some, it was too loose for the R.E.A.L.s but you could wipe a patch and it worked real well.
With the stiffened lube, it was just a little less messy. I use it on my Cap and Ball revolvers, my rifles.
My wife's CVA Dikkert plains rifle, had rust in the bore. I made some R.E.A.L.s for her, brought some valve lapping compound, used it as lube.
Sweeeeet.
Fired about 10rds. The rifle had been sitting without being cleaned for maybe 20yrs before I bought it. No more rust now.
So, my ratio is 65% Beeswax, 35% Olive oil, or Corn Oil. I had one batch with Corn Oil. No issues there.
I use the lube when I am done cleaning the rifles also. Works better than oiling them.
We go to the range once a week, so lubeing the bores works well.
By the by. I like the R.E.A.L.s. Same POI as the patched balls. Hit hard!
Stumpy's Moose Juice
A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using
Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.
I dip my patching in this twice and let it dry laid flat on wax paper in between. Makes a semi-dry patch material that's easy to carry & use. If you don't mind carrying a little bottle it's a GREAT liquid lube as is.
Stumpy's Moose Snot
A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block
Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.
Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.
Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.
__________________________________________________ __________________________
Ill be using this after I can no longer get T/C 1000+ and have used up the many tubes I now own.
Been shooting BP for 20 yrs started w/ streight Crisco Last 15 yrs been using 50/50 Beeswax oliv oil. now thinking of trying peanut oil instead of olive oil. Why told it dose not scorch like olive oil.
Docone31,
My standard for all my BP lube, both patches and REAL and mini lube is easy and I have used the formula for 40 years. 1 part beeswax, 1 part tallow(deer is best but mutton OK) and however much peanut oil to get soft or hard as season dictates. Less oil in summer and more in winter etc...Olive oil is OK but peanut, sunflower and safflower oils have a higher smoke/burn temperature, about 100 degrees higher than olive oil but any of the veggie oils will work. Check the sale/trade forum for beeswax and other supplies. Home made lube is easy. I just melt it all together in a casserole in the microwave, remember it is HOT when you pour it into storage tubs or etc...
10 ga
Beeswax 50%, olive oil 45% , Murphys Oil soap (3%), Carnauba wax (2%) has been my standard for BP lube. works great.
Never mind I read further and found my answer.
I'm having fun working up some lube recipes. There's so many to mess with, but in the end old bacon grease will get the job done (or spit). I found a store in Sacramento called Sacramento Beekeepers Supply, they have a lot of cool stuff. Unfiltered bw is $7 a .lb, not too bad. I got the filtered so I can make some lip balm while I'm at it. Also got anhydrous lanolin, man that stuff is concentrated and sticky stuff. Might put some of that in the mix. Mostly got it to add to my Ed's Red cleaning solvent for my modern guns, works great. I also like the REAL boolits, got me a combo mold, makes one RB and one REAL at a time, very handy. I'll try your recipe in my ROA, I need a HOT weather lube. Summers here stay in the 100's most of the time. Just finished reading an article in an old 1992 'Fouling Shot' about salt in mutton tallow, or any tallow for that matter. BP cartridge shooters using smokeless were getting pitting from the tallow in their lube 'til they figured out they still had to use BP cleaning techniques to remove the salts. Back to the PRB, I precut long strips of pillow ticking, roll them up and put 'em in a old 'chew' can full of lube, they soak it up and are good to go. For huntin' they can be precut to individual size to reduce reloading time, no patch cutting needed.
60% olive oil + 40% beeswax (organic, free-range bees only).
To this, I add 1 teaspoon of ground up sweatsocks saved from my old high school locker and a squirt of aged carp gizzard juice to cut the smell if using Pyrodex.
I'm surprise that what's known as Gatofeo's #1 lube hadn't been mentioned. It's a very old recipe that was found in an old gun magazine. The lube was used on the old outside lubricated bullets of the day.
Made in the double boiler method with increments weighed the lube is:
1 part mutton tallow
1 part paraffin wax
1/2 part bees wax
Yes Gulf Wax has petroleum in it (not sure how much) but it does not leave any sort of residue that's typical.
Gatofeo had claimed to try a tremendous number of lubes and found none did as well.
I've used this on my cap n ball bullets, wads, and REALs and it works great. My POI doesn't change over a period of range time without wiping the bore (pistols as I've not shot many REALs yet).
After soaking wads I poured the remainder into a soap mold.
I use emmert's on my REAL maxiballs, as well as in my 45lc loads. recently shot some through my Henry with 20" barrel, and I didn't detect any leading.
Foggy Mountain BearGuard Boot Waterproofing & Leather Waterproofing
http://www.hotdoe.com/Merchant2/merc...gory_Code=BOOT
I have been using this for patches and lube for conical for 20 + years. Bought at the Rite Aid store 12 cans at $2 each then. still have 5 cans. When I run out I will use Snowcap lard and bees wax melted into the same cans for lubing patches and bullets.
I like a 55% beeswax/45%Olive oil in the warmer weather and a 85%Crisco/15%beeswax in the colder weather it is a little stiffer. But works great for the cap & ball pistol too.
For patched roundball. Moose milk for the range. Moose milk that's high % Ballistol for hunting.
For conicals and Miniés. Crisco when it's cool. Crisco stiffened with beeswax when it's hot.
It is fun to make stuff yourself....BUT, I have wasted so much money and time using good bees wax to make mediocre lube. I have several lifetimes worth of sub-par lube.
Do yourself and your pocketbook a favor and use SPG!!!....NOTHING pan lubes like SPG and NO lube in the world has won more championships than SPG.....SPG just works and it seems to last forever. It smells great too. And it works good for smokeless loads too, so you can even fill your luber-sizer with it.
Wow !!! That's the same recipe that I use. I'm getting low on sweatsocks though. I might have to use the old jock strap. LolQuote:
Originally Posted by Newtire
ive used 5050 Crisco/beeswax for years and its allways done the job for all my black powder shooting.