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I saw this lube in an article by Glen Fryxell, "Herter's .401 Powermag". Pretty simple formula:
1/2 Beeswax
1/2 Sta-Lube Moly-Graph Grease
Has anyone here tried it? Experiences? Opinions? I checked the Sta-Lube and it seems to be SL3330 in a cartridge. They make a lot of greases. Easily available and not expensive.
i have been using it for a few years now I like it in revolvers, have ran it slow to 1600-1700 fps in them with no trouble if the alloy is right. I have used it in 30-06 308 and 30-30 with good results under 2000fps but have not ran it faster than that in 30 caliber. I dont care for it in 1911 it does its job but leaves a grey film/soot all over/in the pistol it cleans off easy enough it just kinda bugs me so i use white lable BAC in 1911. Now that i think about it it does the same to a revolver a stainless gun in an extended shooting session will have a light grayish film all over it, never bothered be on a revolver. Must be one of those grey areas.
I use something similar .but dilute the b/wax with parafin,then add Molybond MoS2 oildag.,with a dash of Castrol R40 to make it sticky. And it is sticky,try getting it off the floor....No doubt that MoS2 is a excellent lube,Ive used it in machinery for years.......wont panlube though,its only max sticky worked thru a lubrisizer...there is no need to lube cases for loading,the smudge left is good for lube.
I have made it and used it on a few calibers. Worked really well, but was sticky/tacky when loading. I added a bit of carnuba to the mix to try and harden it just a bit, worked "ok" on hardening it, and performance was same as before.
Glen's lube works very well. The only downside, it takes some pretty high heat to melt the grease. I like it, but it will even break Pyrex when mixed using a micro wave oven. My own Beeswax/Vaseline mix works just as well and melts at a much lower temperature.
I made a batch and it is a bit sticky, messy. The results are very good though. All ranges of pistol rounds up through 1900fps in rifles for me.
I've made some 50-50 Lith-bee lube, that took quite a bit of heat to melt the grease, So I hear what you are saying.Quote:
Originally Posted by Char-Gar
BUT,
Glen made this post, and it surely doesn't sound like he needed much heat to make his lube.
http://www.artfulbullet.com/index.ph...moly-lube.418/
Cuzinbruce,
Several posted in that thread about how much they liked his lube recipe.
I used a water bath,so not much heat at all.I melted the two waxes together ,then added the slop of moly grease and castor(quick squiz with a bent wire in a drill),then stirred the lot at max revs with the bent wire in drill chuck.I dont know whether the grease melts or not,its broken up so fine that its all well mixed.Certainly not sloppy,just soft enough for a lubrisizer.........it wont work if remelted ,loses its stickyness. I have never had any barrel leaded since using moly.......if Im lazy,I can just paint a bullet with moly as its being seated.......in the old Super Simplex,I can see whats going on.
Thanks for the help. I thought I would ask before plunging in. I think I will give it a try.
JonB - Thanks for the link. Much more info than in the article I found, which was not about lube in particular.
Have Glen tell you about the time he broke a one quart Pyrex container in a microwave. He went back to the double boiler method. Now try mixing beeswax/Vaseline in a Pyrex container in the Microwave and see the difference. Also note how long each types takes to cool in the lube size machine. I don't have the science on the actual temp, but experience tells me, Glenn's mix require considerably more heat.Quote:
Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe
We traded lub formulas back in the day and we agreed both work about the same, and we also agree we each liked our own mix better. End of story.
I imagine you are correct. I was just trying to help out the OP...and noticed Glen's account didn't seem to measure up (in my humble opinion) to what you stated "takes some pretty high heat".Quote:
Originally Posted by Char-Gar
But just like you and Glen, I'll stick with my own favored formula SL68B (which does take some pretty high heat to transform the wax/oil/soap into a grease (460ºF).
I did a little checking and the mfr data lists the drop point of the grease as 350 Fahrenheit. So it will be liquid at that temp. Is that OK for the beeswax? Am I misunderstanding something?
http://www.crcindustries.com/product...oz-SL3330.html
I made a batch. I couldn’t see that it performed any better or worse than a host of other formulas like lithi-bee or 666+1.
It was much more likely to stain a white T shirt.
What color is tungsten sulfide? Might be cleaner than moly sulfide, and it doesnt seem to be much more cost,despite being even more slippery.
I’ve been using what is basically the same recipe since the mid 70s . If I recall , I learned of it from a article in a gun rag ( Gun World ? ) written by Dean Grinnell .
Anyways , it is a fantastic lube imho but is so “slippery” that it bleeds up thru the sides of side die bodies and makes a mess on bullet bases .
I remelt it and pour it into my 450 Lubrisizer .
Hundreds of thousands of 9mm , .38 Spec , 357 mag , 44spec & mag and .45acp with no leading and visible increases in accuracy .
I’ve been using Glens lube for about a year now and have been really happy with it. It flows good in my lube sizer even in our unheated basement (about 40-45 degrees in the winter) without the lube sizer heater plugged in. I only load for 38 spl and 357 mag (both rifle and revolver) and have never had a hint of leading from 600 fps plinker loads all the way up to 1800 fps hunting loads. I guess my only complaint would be that it smells like burning grease if the wind is in your face while shooting boolits with large lube grooves (358-429 for example) but other than that it works great and is cheap and easy to make.
I add some of the same dry powdered Moly, that I use to coat my jacketed bullets to the mix. When I'm cooking up cast bullet lube. As long as my bullets are large enough, I'm not leading at 1900 fps in a 3030 and it leaves a slick shine in the barrel. In handguns, Moly might be overkill, as it's dirtier and smokes more than a beeswax lubed bullet.
Moly is a good lube,but its very black,so be sure not to spread it around accidentally....a tiny amount will make a big black mark on anything light colored.
if glen says it works id take it to the bank. Not to many are more knowledgeable about all aspects of casting as he is.
I've used it for both 38 special and 45ACP without any problems. At 1 part grease and 1 part beeswax it is very soft. I found that I liked it much better at 1 part grease and two or two and a half parts beeswax. It's much stiffer and still goes through my 450 without heat. I tried 1 part grease and three parts beeswax also. It worked fine but seemed to be too dry so I backed off the amount of beeswax just a little.