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I have done everything I can think of to make this mold work with little success. It is a 2 cavity HP brass mold that I can't get the wrinkles out, and the boolits stick to the pins. I've adjusted the temp up and down, added tin to help fill out the mold. Tried different lead recipes, taken it apart and cleaned everything, preheated the molds up to 400+ degrees allowed to cool completely, then again, not sure what to try next. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Wrinkles are either from oil contamination in the blocks or the mold is too cool. Thoroughly, de-grease your mould than pre-heat your mould on a hot plate, while your lead in the pot is melting. When bullets stick to the pins, usually, it because they are too cool. Cast as fast as you can and don't examine your bullets. Cull them later. I assume, your bottom pouring. Give ladle casting a try, you'd be surprised with the results. Especially, with HP moulds. BTW, I have this mould in a brass 4 cavity.
The only issues I have are, occasionally, the pins for the solids don't fully seat and I end up with sort of a transition HP.
Winelover
Thanks Winelover, I'll give it another go tonight.Quote:
Originally Posted by winelover
I haven't had issues with my brass NOE but I have a aluminium 359-92-RN 4 banger that has to be smoking hot to drop nice bullets....but when it does they are nice. Took many attempt to finally find the correct combo.
"Pardon me whilst I adjust my accrutiments." (Daffy Duck)
I've only got maybe 40 boolits that were good, out of 4 or 5 attempts. I'm getting a hotplate to setup next to my pot to help get it hot enough to hopefully work for me. I'll post my results in a few days, thanks Reddirt62!Quote:
Originally Posted by Reddirt62
try using a pencil to coat pins. My brass like it hot. I run 720 and preheat the mold to 400. Make sure the mold is clean inside
On my HP molds, I find that polishing the pin helps. I use 400 and 600 grit wet/try sandpaper. THEN, coat the pins with a release agent like molybdenum disulfide. I use Dri-Slide. Even coating them with powdered graphite helps. At the very beginning of a casting session, I usually give the pins a 20 second or so blast from a propane torch. Don't over-do it.
Before I got my hot plate, I had the same issues with wrinkled bullets and sticking. Now I rarely have those issues since using the hot plate.
I find that if I get the mold hot enough to keep the sprue liquid for 4-5 seconds, I get frosted bullets (with my range lead alloy) that are wrinkle free and drop easily. I titrate down the heat from there by slowing my cadence as needed.
I’m assuming you’ve already cleaned and degreased?
Yes, I have cleaned and degreased them, I think getting the hotplate, and trying some of the graphite and release agent ideas should get it going. I appreciate you guys sharing what works for you!Quote:
Originally Posted by EMR
molybdenum disulfide, Dri-SlideQuote:
Originally Posted by Rattlesnake Charlie
below is what came up at amazon, is this the stuff you suggest?
https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Aid-Bike...lide+lubricant
Looks like it would work. I use the multi-purpose flavor. Here is Dri-Slide's website:Quote:
Originally Posted by RedStar Raider
https://www.drislide.com/
First, thank all you for your tips on my NOE Mold, it made quite a difference. My hotplate came today and I had fairly successful casting session. I took the mold apart and cleaned everything, took a little of the 400 grit sandpaper to the ends of the HP pins, used some graphite as was suggested, put it back together got the lead nice and hot and started casting. I saw right a way that things were to hot with the bullets coming out. Lowered the temp, and within a few more pours things look really good, and working good. After about ten pours one of the bullets started hanging up in the cast and on the pin, then the next time it switched to the other pin, but each time after that it hung up on the outside pin every pour, it became more and more difficult to get it to drop, so I stopped. I did end up with some nice bullets without any wrinkles, and no cursing!!!!! Should the Dri-Slide application resolve this or have I got something else I need to do?
Not sure about dry slide but I do know Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant (L512) is a great non stick for moulds and does not contaminate the cavities. It leaves a thin micro Teflon film on the surface, boolits seem to jump out of the mould.
I put on a coat with a Q-Tip , it drys as the mould warms up and usually do not need to treat the cavities again while casting.
You can get the Liquid Wrench Dry Lube in wally mart , auto parts store or big box like home depot. Not expensive .
The little bottle of liquid , when applied with a Q-Tip will last for years.
Polish any pins that keep giving you trouble , try the Liquid Wrench Dry Lube and after the brass mould gets well seasoned....like a cast iron pan needs to get seasoned, You will be casting like a champ. Brass just needs several casting sessions to get properly broke in.
Gary
Thanks Gary, I'll check that out.
RedStar, I have a number of brass molds including some hollow point. The NOE pins are a problem with sticking.
If you have a Dremel Tool with a fabric buffing pad, polish the pins with polishing compound like white cake. This will leave the pins with a mirror like shine. Clean the molds & pins thoroughly. If you still get some sticking rub the pins with pencil lead or add a layer of carbon on the pins by holding them in the flame of a burning candle. Brass molds like to run hot so up the temp on your pot till you get frosted bullets then you can back off the temp as needed. Watch the temp on the hot plate because brass molds can warp.