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my lyman left handed deerstalker(flintlock) stock is ruined. the stock has a crack (from the beginning of the barrel thru the pistol grip and thru the butt) that you could literally throw a cat thru. does anyone know (i've already emailed lyman) if there is a company/guy/girl that does a deerstalker stock? it can be either done or a semi-inletted stock.
thanks!!!
maybe contact lyman direct, or investarms - www.investarm.com/eng-avancarica.html
for the most part, typically even humongous cracks can be repaired stronger than the stock wood itself if the crack can be compressed and reasonably closed. i've done this more than a few times using either slow set epoxy for big/deep cracks, or cracks that were missing wood slivers, or for cracks that can be compressed closed with clamps it will only take a bit of quality water thin CYAnoacrylate super glue to fully wick into the crack and fully repair and seal.
Could be hopeless (no pic) but if the spit will still mate well a repair such as rfd mentioned might solve the problem . Lots of bonding agents could work . If nothing else just for an experiment to get you out of a bind .
Last resort, you might contact Pecatonica and see if they could profile a new one for you using your current stock (glued back together) as a pattern? I know they will cut customers wood but don't know if they are limited to their patterns? Be worth a call to them if you can't locate something that will work.
As rfd points out - they can sometimes be repaired. I've repaired some over the years that basically cracked due to poor grain pattern or direction. I have used slow setting epoxy, etc. but have sometimes had to build jigs just for that repair in order to get a good clamp on it. And, sometimes it can turn in to a futile attempt and there is no fix.
unless that stock was chewed on by a large yard dog with a penchant for tasty wood snacks, i'd bet sight unseen it can be repaired without too much fuss. hey OP, got pix to post?
I've successfully repaired a couple cracked stocks using Acraglas. Spread the crack, apply the Acraglas as best as you can to fill the gap and then compress it until it dries. There may be newer/better/cheaper epoxies available, but that's what I've had available.
if the crack is big and open, and can be reasonably squeezed/clamped closed, any off the shelf slow set epoxy will get the job more than done. hobby shops have the quality stuff, any brand will do as long as it's slow set (30-40 min). i use this weekly in my trade (luthier), along with a quality water thin viscosity CYA glue.
Repair.
I have an old double shotgun that the stock was broken in the lock/grip area. Someone before me tried gluing it, which did not work, and, it messed up the joint area. I drilled and installed a couple of dowels to reinforce the joint and then epoxied. In the area where the surfaces did not meet I mixed some paint in with some epoxy and 'painted' it to match the wood color and grain. Last, I used a small triangle file to match the checkering. Unless you look close you can't see it.
unfortunately i do not have a picture of the stock. its been sitting on the shelf for 5 or 6 years. although i know how to fix it, i want another because under the barrel, the stock looks like it has a 1" hole around it and it also has no/very, very little 4f-powder in the pan? . it goes out of frizzen pan and the barrel(it about 1/16" from the pan to the flash hole, it used to 3/16"), i've tried awhole lot of remedies, but the 4f doesn't stay in like its supposed to.
i'd trade it for another one, but the barrel is great, it will go 1 - 1 1/2" at 100 yards(5 shots) with a round ball. i used another left handed flintlock many years ago, that did 3 - 4" at 100 yards.
Tightbond II and clamps have repaired a lot of wood for me. The glue joint is stronger than the rest of the wood when finished. I have tested wood before and after curing a couple days it will break again elsewhere if glued properly. You have nothing to loose by tringing except time and $5 for the tightbond II
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[QUOTE=tdoyka;412058...."the stock looks like it has a 1" hole around it and it also has no/very, very little 4f-powder in the pan? . it goes out of frizzen pan and the barrel(it about 1/16" from the pan to the flash hole, it used to 3/16"), i've tried awhole lot of remedies, but the 4f doesn't stay in like its supposed to.[/QUOTE]
Can you take some pictures? You know what you mean, but I can't understand what you are referring to.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tdoyka
That sounds like the lock was not properly inlet to start with. The bolster must be snug against the barrel. Powder falling down into the lockworks is bad stuff!
Yep, looks like two things. Inlet lock better. And, I'd do a glass bed job around the barrel breech. It sounds like firing it has had powder flash under the barrel. I still think it can be repaired.
But, it also is a good excuse to get a new rifle :)
Find someone who has a stock duplicator. Such business are found on the internet.
If powder was sifting down between the lock and the barrel it's a good explanation how the stock got spit.
Just an offer. If you send me the gun, and return shipping, I will fix the stock, glasss bed the barrel channel and around the lock, for FREE! I buy acraglass in bulk, as I do a lot of center fire and ML rifle accurizing, material wont cost much at all, and glad to help a forum member out, have done so before, never go wrong helping people out. My zip code is 42633, if you want to figure shipping.
thank you, but i sent the stock(s):lol: to be duplicated. again, thank you very much!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by koger