New Kimber springs

I've posted about this pistol some time back, haven't made any changes yet, and haven't shot it much the last couple years.

Recently, I've been shooting it a bit more.

It's a Kimber Eclipse Target II (.45 ACP), Gov't model, steel frame. It's very accurate (for me) and I enjoy it by and large, but it has always thrown brass quite a way (10'-15') and with very little consistency as to direction, and about once every 150 rounds, one straight back in my face. Also, I've never "light loaded" it, and likely never will. I usually run H&G 68's (200 grain SWC's) at 960fps with 6.3 grans of H-Universal (love this load), I'll also probably start running some 230's (probably Lee 230 TC's) at 1,000fps with Ramshot Silhouette (this will be a hunting load, not shot frequently).

First off, I'm probably going to try to put in a new smaller radius firing pin stop from EGW. From what I've read, that'll help with the ejection issues while cutting down on wear and tear, especially with heavier loads.

I've been looking at Wolff Springs. Thinking about replacing the stock recoil spring (no one seems to brag on factory 1911 springs as it is) with either a 16, 17, or even a 18.5 lb. spring. I don't see the need to run super heavy, I'm not loading Supers or Rowlands, just looking for reliability, smoothness, and "friendlier" ejection. I'm guessing the gun has close to 2000 rounds on it, so it's probably due a swap anyhow. Any opinions or recommendations?

Is there any need to change the main/hammer spring? Mine is whatever stock Kimber is. Standard seems to be 23lb. Any need to go lighter or heavier here? Any need to replace in terms of maintenance?

Do I need to replace the firing pin spring? Ignition has seemed consistent. I run CCI 300's pretty much all the time.

Wolff also advertises an extractor spring for External Extractor Model Kimbers (mine is one of those) that is supposed to be a bit stouter. Anyone have any experience or opinions?

I've already looked around a bit on this subject, but would like to hear from the good folks on this site. Thanks in advance for any replies!!!

Unless the stop is slanted to match the hammer angle, which is a fair amount of work, the small radius stop will not confer its potential slide attenuation. This is not the minor deal most of those who discuss it let on.

Best idea is a properly slanted stop and 16 lb spring. Firing pin springs should be replaced periodically, generally at the same time as other springs are replaced.

Stop appears more or less vertical in the slide, in relation to the hammer, which leans in towards the stop somewhat.
Stop does have a pretty long angle at the bottom, which I'm sure grants the slide quite a bit more leverage than a flat bottom (or a shorter, sharper angle) would.

I'll give it a whirl. They're pretty cheap and look pretty difficult to screw up in terms of installation.

The face of the stop needs to be slanted. This is more work than putting a radius on the sharp bottom edge, which is all most who install one do. This is a considerable mistake. The gun when fired does not move the slide in the same way as when racked by hand. Hand racking gives a false impression the stop is working when it is in fact having much less effect than if the stop was correctly modified for slide attenuation.

Most material is removed from the top above and near the firing pin hole and progressively less as you near the bottom.

It still looks straight up and down to me, but I went ahead an ordered the stop from EGW. I figured when I take it out, I can lay it on a table, compare it, and file in any angle. I'm pretty handy with a file, but I sorta wonder if the factory stop was correct to begin with. We'll see.

Be aware, EGW does not list a Series 80, .45, Stainless Stop WITH THE BOMAR CUT on their website, but they will make them.

Also went ahead and ordered some ISMI springs from EGW. 16lb recoil, 22lb hammer, and firing pin spring. Prolly call Wolff and try one of their extractor springs while I've got it torn down.

Many of us run 18.5 pound recoil springs for Govt. 45 ACP 1911 pistols. I also use the H&G #68 (who doesn't? :-) ), and run them considerably slower than you at around 800 fps. The 18.5 pound spring is perfect. If I was running at 960 fps I'd consider a heavier spring.

No slant, no significant effect from swapping stops. That is how it is likely to occur. Resign yourself to slanting the stop.

Update.

I ordered the pin stop and springs (I think they were ISMI brand?) from EGW and put them in my Kimber. I also ordered a Wolf spring for the external extractor, wondering if that would cure some of the ejection woes. On top of the recoil and extractor springs, I also installed a new firing pin spring and mainspring (21lb, if I remember right). Had to wait a few weeks for the parts, as they had to make some series 80 stops w/Bomar sight cuts.

I broke the corner on the firing pin stop with a file then rounded it off on a Arkansas stone. I couldn't tell that there was "slant" to the factory stop, aside from the substantial taper that ran from to bottom of the stop to 2/3's of the way up.

I've run around 50 rounds through it and thus far, it has thrown everything to the right and behind me about 8', as opposed to throwing it in fairly random directions. I did install a 16lb spring. I think I'll order an 18.5 and see if that settles it down a bit more.
I can tell some difference in the way it recoils and there is definitely more resistance racking the slide with the hammer down.

Only negatives I can tell is that the trigger might feel a bit heavier (was shooting my Model 15 on the same outing, it will spoil you), and I was running a Kimber factory mag (that has been loaded pretty much constantly for the last 10 years), and a Wilson mag. It hung up a couple times on the Kimber mag. I suspect the spring in the Kimber mag may be a bit "slow" for the increased slide speed. I need to order new springs for all my mags anyway (a Wilson, a Chip McCormick, and a couple Kimbers). The Wilson fed fine, didn't try the McCormick.

50 rounds does not a complete review make, but I'm pretty happy so far. No real weirdness that I can tell. Haven't sandbagged it yet, but it didn't have any trouble hitting a 12" gong at a shade over 30 yards that day.

I did tear my Kimber down further than I have ever stripped it before. Wasn't as big a deal as I figured (youtube was my friend). Biggest PITA is dealing with the full length guide rod on re-assembly.

The absolute best way I have seen to choose 1911 recoil springs is by setting up a close target, 7yds, 21feet, and doing rapid dbl taps. When the two shots are 1 1/2" or close to that, that spring is correct for the gun, the load, and also the shooter's grip. Changing springs will change the ergonomics of the gun and groups will open accordingly. Changing the load will have the same effect.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DougGuy

The absolute best way I have seen to choose 1911 recoil springs is by setting up a close target, 7yds, 21feet, and doing rapid dbl taps. When the two shots are 1 1/2" or close to that, that spring is correct for the gun, the load, and also the shooter's grip. Changing springs will change the ergonomics of the gun and groups will open accordingly. Changing the load will have the same effect.

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Interesting.
What is the sequence you go through to find which spring you need?
Second shot high, second shot low etc.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tazman

Interesting.
What is the sequence you go through to find which spring you need?
Second shot high, second shot low etc.

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Trial and error until you get the closest follow up shot. You really don't have to take precise aim, you want to point and shoot rapidly and the group that is the closest together is the spring to use for -that- load.

If you have a real stiff spring, the second shot may be quite low as the slide velocity will be higher and it will go into battery with significantly more downward push on the muzzle.

So I would need a test spring set in order to properly test this.
What they call a recoil calibration set.