Years ago when I worked in a factory we had a commercial tumbler that used ceramic media. I would think that would work fine on brass.
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Years ago when I worked in a factory we had a commercial tumbler that used ceramic media. I would think that would work fine on brass.
I confused cleaning, polishing and coatings for YEARS.
Until I started doing large volume I just never rubbed the two extra brain cells together to define the difference and come up with a process...
Now I wash, strain, rinse, strain, polish (dry media, with or without coating), strain and dump finished brass.
Strainer on a cement mixer (or any other tumbler drum) allows removing water, pins, dry media without unloading the drum, which saves back breaking work when doing large volume, cement mixer spin and tumble through range of angle.
Media strainers (spinning baskets) are made for mostly dry media, there isn't a system for catching pins/chips, that's where the paint strainer bags come in for small volume.
Being able to add coating to dry media (walnut shell in my case) keeps the brass from dulling.
Again, that's a dry, polish & coat in one step.
When I don't want polish inside the case, I strain off dry media, throw in sponges with coatings and tumble a few minutes, this keeps coatings out of my dry media, and sponges don't enter the cases so no coatings inside the case. Sponges are also easy to pick out of the brass, so straining isn't necessary.
I also case lube with sponges, again it keeps the case lube out of the necks/bodies of the cases, and missed sponges simply ride around in the case feeder, they don't jam it up, pick them out when the brass is processed.
Again, just ideas that have worked for me, if you can use any feel free...
Have any of you guys that use the stainless chips noticed any accelerated wear to your drum liner?
I have not
May be due to much shorter run times
I get the brass clean enough for me in 20 to 30 minutes
Most everything seems to be a plus/minus deal in life
The chips have to be harder on everything they come in contact with.
Wow, I guess I'm "old school". I put brass in my rotary. I turn the switch on. A few hours later I dump and sift the brass. Inspection is a normal part of my reloading style so I often inspect just before my next step, one by one. Three steps for cleaning my brass; two if you don't consider turning on a switch as a step. I'm not impressed by virgin looking cartridges, and there's no one at the range to impress. My "pride" and satisfaction comes wen I retrieve a target with a good group (life long machinist/mechanic that got satisfaction by the accuracy of construction/usefulness of the finished product or repair)...
Whatever works for you is what works. No reason to conform to others' ideas if you're satisfied.Quote:
Originally Posted by mdi
When I first got into competitive shooting, most of the semi-pros and actual professionals didn't clean their brass, at all. They simply reloaded dirty cases. this wasn't bulls eye, or precision, but tactical and defensive and bowling pin types of competitions.
While I do clean my brass, I don't care about it being 100% beautiful...just want to reduce friction and foreign contamination, and have consistent case volumes and seating/crimps, etc. I shoot USPSA and 3 gun. Between that, training, and my families' needs, it's not uncommon to shoot 2000-3000 9mm, 40, and 223 a month. ANYTHING that cuts down on the time I spend reloading is a good thing... I decided early on that vibratory tumblers were, for me, a HUGE waste of time when wet tumbling generally took 1/5th the time a vibratory tumbler did.
Likewise, in semi autos, I do NOT clean finished ammo in a vibratory tumbler after loading- even though I use dillon case lube, and there is definitely a residue on it afterwards, I've yet to see any feeding issues after doing it this way for almost 10 years. My personal belief is that the case lube residue- basically lanolin after the alcohol dries- protects the brass from oxidation.
Switching to no pins and Brass Juice cut out one more step and a bit more time was a logical progression. Not going back.
Love this idea sounds better then the screen I tape to the drain[smilie=1:Quote:
Originally Posted by vagrantviking
Another vote for stainless steel chips: they just flow out of any type of bottleneck case. So long as the squirrel cage of the separator is submerged in water, the chips will quickly exit the cases.
I reload inside my home, and I have little children with developing brains. As a result, I like to clean my brass in a water solution so I don't have lead dust flying around.
Also, of all the different wet tumblers I've tried, the Frankford Arsenal is my favorite: The drum is made of plastic, so no fear of rust like I had with the Thumbler Tumbler Model B. Also, I really like only having to unscrew the lid, as opposed to the 6 wingnuts.
What ever works.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...inless-PelletsQuote:
Originally Posted by onegunred
After 20 years of using a Dillon vibratory tumbler I added one piece of equipment and a couple more steps to cleaning very dirty brass.
I bought a Hornady Magunm ultrasonic cleaner. Just finished cleaning/polishing 2500 raw LC 5.56 brass
Step one: unbox and de-prime the brass
Step two: Swage out the primer pockets
Both of these steps allow me to handle each piece of brass twice, looking for culls
Step three and four: a trip through the sonic cleaner with lemishine and dawn dish soap, rinse under hot tap water. This gets the dirt and crud off the outside (and most out of the inside). Then a trip for an hour or so in a 200*f oven to dry
Steps five and six: lube and size (in a dillon carbide sizer die) then trim to 1.750".
Step seven: another trip through the sonic cleaner, dried in the oven as above, then about 3-4 hours in the dillon vibratory tumbler with corncob and liquid car wax.
At this time you would think that instead of being once fired brass it looks like brand new unprimed brass. Primer pockets are squeaky clean
All that is left to do is chamfer inside and out and reload as you see fit
I use Cream of Tartar (at your grocery store's spice rack) , about a tablespoon to a half gallon of water in a rock tumbler. I tumble the brass first in Simple Green and water, then the Cream of Tartar. The resullt is not quite as shinny as the pins, etc., but it is more than enough and cheap.
I'd be down for that process, if it wasn't 2 processes.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishoot
I stopped with all The Mix and match, Liquids and such . Went back to dry and that's it. No mess
I have been washing by hand in plastic Folgers coffee containers. I've been using hot water, dish soap, vinegar, and salt. It works OK. Brass functions just fine.
I had read on here about Lemi Shine. I wanted to try some. So I googled it to see what it was made of.
And I found this.
http://www.chemistry-blog.com/2012/0...in-lemi-shine/
Wow! He spent a little time working on that science!
Is Brass Juice that much better? I wonder what's in that Brass Juice that makes it worth $75.00 bucks a gallon?
JM
We have a guy here in ICT that buys, sorts, cleans, and sells brass as a side gig. His brass is pretty dang ckean and shiny. He wet tumbles with the traditional lemi/soap but in a cement mixer. No pins though. His media of choice:
.22LR brass!
He gets a ton of it in the range brass as it is but thats what he uses for media. It seperates easy and I have to admit, it works awesome. The insides aren't as clean as pins and he doesn't deprine it but it works and you can't ask for more plentiful free media.
I actually use a bit of water with my corn cob dry tumbler.Quote:
Dry only. Wet cob blast media will turn into a goo when water is added. Went back to dry tumbling (rotary) as for me there is less mess, easier use, and for me, a bright, glossy shiny and pristine case IDs and primer pockets are not necessary. Only 2 cases get shined; 45 ACP and 30-06, when fired from my semi-autos. Easy to find in the dirt, rocks and trash at my "range".
My brass usually comes with a lot of dust and gravel. I started rinsing my brass in a bucket of water before tumbling. Initially, I thought this would keep my corn cob working longer by reducing the amount of dust I was putting in there. I would shake out excess water then put them in the tumbler like that. What I found was the brass got cleaner than dry, and in about a quarter of the time! And there was less dust on the cases. The corn cob would be grossly dry by the time the load was done.
But I found I couldn't do multiple loads in succession like that. The corn cob would accumulate too much water and start to clump and sometimes stick in the cases. So there's a limit. On successive loads, I'll shake/drain the cases more thoroughly and let them dry out a bit in the sun before adding them to the tumbler.
I deprime and size for pistol brass, if rifle brass, just deprime. Take the brass to be worked on and place in a 3.5 gal bucket with a squirt of Dawn and a pinch of Lemi-shine and hot water about an inch above the brass. Agitate by hand a few times and let sit for 5 minutes or whenever I remember I had brass soaking. Drain and rinse through a square plastic basket with holes to drain the dirty water out. Load up in my FA tumbler with SS pins also with another pinch of Lemi-shine but with Turtle Wash and Wax this time. Run for 45 minutes to an hour. Break out the FA media separator and spin about 10 times back and forth. Lay them out on an old bath towel, do the hammock rock, spill them out on another towel and air dry, if I want to speed it up, I'll use a blow dryer run them over the laid out brass.
For decades I used BB gun BB in my Lorton,s, with JOY dish washing soap & water, I switched to SS pins about 10 years ago and never looked back !