I’m gonna try out my new mould tomorrow

Well after two weeks we’re finally gonna get out of the deep freeze tomorrow, it’s gonna be in the 30’s. I’m gonna fire up the furnace and get the pole barn to between 60-70 degrees and try out my new NOE mould in .44. I’ve never casted with an aluminum mould and have read here that they’re different than the steel one’s, they heat up faster and cool down faster, I’ve seasoned the mould, put a tiny amount of 2 stroke oil on top of the mould, and under the spruce plate, and a tiny drop of oil on the alignment pins. I’m also a little confused to casting temps, I’ve read that 600-700 degrees is about the best casting temp, but the instructions for the NOE mould say to keep the temp below 600 degrees. Also my casting furnace has been sitting in the pole barn with the temps down to -16 below zero, so I’m thinking it’s a good idea to bring it in the house tonight and get it at room temp before I fire it up. The only mould I’ve ever casted with are the Lyman’s, so any tips about useing this new mould will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Paul

Some learned advice about aluminum moulds.

1) Run your mold through the heat and cool cycles.
2) Don't overheat your mould.
3) If you have a hollow point mould, turn your mould sideways so that the hollow point pins settle into the grooves before closing the mould.
4) Never slam the mold closed, aluminum is very soft when heated.
5) Never strike your mould or sprue plate. Use a gloved hand to cut the sprue.

Your mould should last many years and give you many thousands of boolits if you treat it right.

If everything is at temp and they still come out wrinkled, keep casting, the machining lube will eventually burn off. Ya might want to clean the cavities one last time with a qtip and alcohol before preheating.

You'll be fine...aluminum molds cast like a house a fire...this time of year you should be good to go @ 700*F.

Don't forget to follow the NOE directions for breaking in a new mould.
When dealing with aluminum it does make a difference...I even do the same break in with Lee moulds.
You could have heat cycled it in the kitchen.
The machining oils go deep into the metal, heat will bring them out , even after cleaning with acetone. Heat cycle, cool and clean, I do it three times before serious casting begins.
Expect the first session to be a seasoning session, maybe a few throw backs, after that it's clear sailing.
Gary

I also have a couple of new to me molds that I'm getting anxious to cast with. But I have a large pile of weights that are sitting in the shop floor, in front of my table, needing to be smelted. Like you, I'm waiting on the temps to get a little higher.

Not sure of mold temp but find running my pot in the 700 degree range worked best, both with NOE and Lee gang molds.

My Temp is 730 with my aluminum molds.


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I shoot for 700F on all my molds, I go about 25F hotter for HP molds. I vary my casting tempo to keep the molds at the proper temperature.

Aluminum works very well-it’s a NOE, so you know the mold will do it’s job.
I find that the mold itself has to be very hot to work well. Personally, I’m not afraid to dip a corner in the melt for a goodly while. A hot plate is highly recommended and serves the same purpose.