Anyone 9mm swc 120ish grains?

I'll be spending part of the weekend playing with the swag-o-matic and the rest of the toys in the basement, and as i primarily shoot 9mm, i can't help but think of cutting the wire to a length to get somewhere in the 'normal' are of 9mm cast bullets and see what they do. I have a 355 sizing die and the press swages them to 358. Going to GC them and tumble lube and attempt to find a way to uniformly cut lube grooves. I do no have a powder coating setup yet but it is on the list. Shooting out of Keltec P11, hipoint carbine and pistol, and a Turkish M9 clone.
Anyone play with 9mm SWCs with worthwhile results?

I think the SWC profile could be difficult in pistol depending on where that shoulder ends up when the bullet is seated in the casing.
I'm not saying it will be a problem, just saying it could be a feeding problem. I wouldn't make a lot of those at first until you know how they will feed in your pistol.

Some SWC designs are fantastic in pistols and some not so much. The truncated cone profile, which is a lot like a SWC without the sharp shoulder, works in most 9mm pistols. The 200 gr SWC works great in most 45 ACP pistols but the shoulder is almost flush with the casing when seated.
I think it will depend a lot on how deep you must seat that bullet to get the correct OAL and not be too deep to reduce case capacity. In other words, it may be fine or it may not feed in your pistol at all. Hence my advice to make just a few bullets before you invest a lot of time and effort.

SWC's can work in 9mm's. H&G 275 is a good one. It's basically a 9mm copy of the H&G 68 45 ACP. I'd be more concerned with shooting real soft swaged bullets in 9mm. Gas checking and powder coating should eliminate leading, but I've never had any luck with 9mm and soft bullets.

Even hard cast bullets will see some deformation when chambering. I'm guessing swagged bullets will be noticeably smashed if you examine bullets that have been fed from the magazine. They'll probably work for plinking loads, but if I'm spending the time to go through the routine of making bullets I want something that will work out to 100 yards.

have tried the Lee 105 SWC with mediocre success..sometimes get a failure to load sort of ! Round chambers but locks up everything - slide binds up & can't eject the chambered round !! happened 2 different times ended up using my squib rod to push back the loaded round which freed the slide up. it looks like the forward driving band is hitting the chamber & head spacing on it instead of the rim. PC'ed & sized .356 3.5gr Titegroup. Those that fire punch pretty round holes in the target & are accurate enough for practice ammo. That square edge is the problem & seating the boolit deeper so the forward driving band is flush with the case mouth instead of trying to seat to the crimp groove MAY be the answer. Any thoughts??? I don't think it will intrude into the case enough to decrease case capacity & create a pressure issue.

Thanks fellas.
I had also wondered about lead being too soft. Was kinda hoping experience with 45acp and anyone who has tried it in 9mm would fill in the details.
Still haven't got the press out, winterizing is taking longer than anticipated.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by 1eyedjack

have tried the Lee 105 SWC with mediocre success..sometimes get a failure to load sort of ! Round chambers but locks up everything - slide binds up & can't eject the chambered round !! happened 2 different times ended up using my squib rod to push back the loaded round which freed the slide up. it looks like the forward driving band is hitting the chamber & head spacing on it instead of the rim. PC'ed & sized .356 3.5gr Titegroup. Those that fire punch pretty round holes in the target & are accurate enough for practice ammo. That square edge is the problem & seating the boolit deeper so the forward driving band is flush with the case mouth instead of trying to seat to the crimp groove MAY be the answer. Any thoughts??? I don't think it will intrude into the case enough to decrease case capacity & create a pressure issue.

---

I had more or less the same experience with this bullet in my M&P. It’s a shame; I really wanted to like that bullet. It stretches my lead supply, has pleasant recoil, is accurate at least out to 25 yards, and makes beautiful holes in paper. Just never could get acceptably consistent feeding despite trying numerous OALs.

I have the NOE 358 128 SWC that I size to .357 and load in 9mm.
but I will admit, the shoulder is tiny and it looks more like a TC...but it cycles in the 9mm guns I own.

In regards to cutting a GC shank, I bet a cannelure tool might be able to be set to do that.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NathanHoln

I'll be spending part of the weekend playing with the swag-o-matic and the rest of the toys in the basement, and as i primarily shoot 9mm, i can't help but think of cutting the wire to a length to get somewhere in the 'normal' are of 9mm cast bullets and see what they do. I have a 355 sizing die and the press swages them to 358. Going to GC them and tumble lube and attempt to find a way to uniformly cut lube grooves. I do no have a powder coating setup yet but it is on the list. Shooting out of Keltec P11, hipoint carbine and pistol, and a Turkish M9 clone.
Anyone play with 9mm SWCs with worthwhile results?

---

When you get to that point, try TL'ing the swaged bullets. Should work...

The Lee 105 SWC has to be seated so that top band doesn't run into the rifling...these new 9mm have little or no throat. The chamber ends and the rifling begins. So you have to play with how much driving band protrudes. My WWII P38 has a throat you can measure with a yardstick , but the new pistols ...not so. Once you get the seating depth worked out...and that's for any and all cast boolits... then you are good to go.
My old P38 dotes on the Lee 105 SWC, mild loads shoot right to the pistols fixed sights .
Gary