50-70 Shiloh sharps vs 50-70 government?

Hi guys I am looking at building a 50-70 government. I am looking at getting a PTG reamer through midway (i have heard that dealling with PTG directly can be like pulling teeth).

Midway however only list a Finish Reamer 50-70 Shiloh Sharps not a 50-70 government!

Does anyone know what the difference in the chambering is? I can find no date at all on the shiloh sharps is it a very slightly different chmaber or completely different, google turns up nothing for a 50-70 shiloh sharps (to add further confusion a 50-70-1 3/4 sharps also comes up.

Please if anyone knows the difference between the two let me know. failing that I will contact PTG and wait for a reply!

Thanks

Hi mate, I have occasionally read about the 50-70 Shiloh Sharps, but was never really clear on what was meant by it. I assumed it was 50-70 in a Shiloh Rifle?

Given I can find no specific data for a 50-70 "Shiloh Sharps" I would think it's a nomeclature issue. But, given we cannot be sure yet, why not email the store and ask them, given they sell the product?

Have emailed hopefully I get a reply soon.

You can go to PTG's web site to look see if they have the drawings for those reamers, and compare the difference.

Get a Clymer reamer.If you contact them directly they will send you a print of the reamer before you order.I have used many Clymer reamers and never had a problem.Manson reamers are excellent also.

AFAIK, the main difference between the Gov't spec and the Shiloh is bullet diameter. Shiloh is nominal .512", whereas Gov't spec is nominal .515"

Unless Shiloh has changed their reamers they are .535 at the case neck with a .510 throat and a 2 degree 30 minute lead with no freebore.

Don't take anyone's word for the dimensions of any caliber that is this old.
You can potentially wind up with dies and a chamber reamer that are not compatible for best accuracy.

Many modern 50-70s are .512 groove diameter while originals are .515 and larger
I would not really base any decision on what Shiloh does but rather on the groove diameter of the barrel that you buy and then the bullet molds that are available.
Check reloading die dimensions too. The most commonly found are RCBS and Lyman. Use dies that will work with your chamber and bullet diameter.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by andym79

Hi guys I am looking at building a 50-70 government. I am looking at getting a PTG reamer through midway (i have heard that dealling with PTG directly can be like pulling teeth).

Midway however only list a Finish Reamer 50-70 Shiloh Sharps not a 50-70 government!

Does anyone know what the difference in the chambering is? I can find no date at all on the shiloh sharps is it a very slightly different chmaber or completely different, google turns up nothing for a 50-70 shiloh sharps (to add further confusion a 50-70-1 3/4 sharps also comes up.

Please if anyone knows the difference between the two let me know. failing that I will contact PTG and wait for a reply!

Thanks

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I have a modern 50/70 with 0.512"bore and 1:26" ROT

Shot this group just today!

http://i.imgur.com/7Rj84YX.jpg

Hi at what range is that? I am interested in if it can do 100, 150 and 200 accurately.

I got drawings from PTG the Shiloh had a 510 throat the government a 512

I have about 40 reamers from PTG. Great company to deal with. All puchased directly from them.

Did you find that the reamers were dispatched in good time? I hear often that they are good quality but it might take a year to get your reamer!

The 2 use the same case. The Shiloh runs a tighter throat, with less leade.
LG

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bad *** Wallace

I have a modern 50/70 with 0.512"bore and 1:26" ROT

Shot this group just today!

http://i.imgur.com/7Rj84YX.jpg

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Hi bad *** what range is that group at? And what size bullet?

id be interested in your load too, i just bought a swedish 50-70 govt rolling block a couple weeks ago and have just started loading for it. found a load that shoots decent 49g of Hodgden 777 with the lyman 515141 with new starline brass and cci LR primers

A simple straight taper case chamber of that size is very simple to do on a lathe with taper attachment.By the time you get a reamer out to Oz you ll be on the wrong side of $250-$300.The other economical way is to buy a standard /straight reamer and grind the taper and throat onto it.Chinese off ebay ,of course.......I would bore it.