The wad definitely protected the boolit base. I was also trying to eliminate base edge feathering as I thought the feathering would be a source of inaccuracy. I can't say what effect it had on the target. I do know that fired into my test tube, the wad would often still be attached to the boolit in the catch medium.Quote:
Originally Posted by outdoorfan
As long as THIS keeps happening, it might be awhile before I can continue this testing. :-(
Attachment 215152
Shooter AZ is your 30-190P mould tapered as shown in Accurate drawing or is top band full size. I ask because I noted that Pdawg lapped his mould ogive out.
I ordered the mold "as drawn". There is no need to lap it, as you are going to size the boolit anyway. I size to .301, wrap, lube and final size to .310.
That bullet is undersized on the nose so that it tapers, just like the drawing illustrates. .301 doesn't begin until the bottom of the second band, if I remember. Seems to fit the throat pretty well.
Well this is neat! I'm late to the party, but since I drew that mould up in the first place, not really knowing what I was doing, let me at least explain my idea behind it.
The first one was the 160-grain version, and if anyone orders it, get Tom to make it with larger everything, including the nose. I designed the AM 30-190P based on what I learned from the first one, mainly regarding size, and added more length actually so it would fill the whole neck of a .30-'06. The nose was designed to fit and fill the SAAMI-spec '06 throat, with the very front band riding the bore when patched. I used enough RX22 or WW780 Supreme to come up nearly to the body/shoulder junction when settled, and then sifted in BPI Original, granulated shot buffer until it was just barely into the base of the neck, and seated the patched bullets on top so they were snugly pressed into the throat.
I stopped at a little over 2650 fps because that's about as much as I wanted from a six pound rifle, and it shot well at that speed. The alloy approaches 25 bhn, which is really too hard for the paper patch, but it stays together when it hits meat and doesn't shatter. The tin addition helps that. At anything over about 2200 fps, the nose shape is irrelevant, velocity mushes it just fine and if you don't make the alloy too soft, it won't blow up half the animal. YMMV, of course, it's difficult to quantify these things when few of us know what's really in our wheel weights.
It helps to cut slightly different angles on the end of the patches, and stretch the paper over the break in the ogive, pulling it tighter on the nose than the driving bands, so the ends of the patch meet square. A true parallelogram patch will not meet true on this bullet, or it will be too lose on the nose. It's kind of a pain, but like I said, I didn't really know what I was doing designing the bullet, and no one had much input on a "patched bore-rider" when I asked during the design. It seems to work ok, though.
Here's a photo of the patch shape I used on the 160, similar to the 190, and some rag paper I was using to polish a rough bore:
Attachment 215956
PLEASE lubricate your bullets with something, at least smear some soft beexwax/Vaseline mix on the patches with your fingers, otherwise it might do more polishing than you may want!
Here's a target shot with the 190P at 100 yards, dialed in where I wanted for a 200-yard zero:
Attachment 215959
I called it good enough with not much further development, and I'm happy some of you are able to do something with it too, even though there are moulds available now that no doubt would be better suited for the task.
Gear
Gear,
I concur that that design fits the '06 chamber/throat well, at least for my Kimber.
I also cut the one end of the patch at a little different angle to accommodate the taper.
What design do you currently use in your '06, if any?
Those bullets were "grand experiments", mainly to answer a couple of questions I had about fit and bore riding patches. I traded the rifle, before I bought a lathe and could fix it's .302x.310" barrel and .346" chamber neck problem. I replaced it with the first .30 XCB rifle that Goodsteel did the chamber work on, and switched back to gas-checked, lubed bullets, then on to the lube quest, and never got back to regularly patching for .30-cal. Another limiting factor for me at the time was not having a push-through die the right size so I could use regular .30-caliber cast bullet moulds. A friend made me one on his lathe just a couple of years ago, and I've used it to knock down the Lee 311230-5R Blackout bullet (which is already very much undersized already) to good effect. I also really like the looks of the NOE PP moulds modeled after the NRA's test moulds, but I haven't bought one yet.
Gear
I think that Lee bullet you mentioned is similar to the NOE 230 grainer that I've sized down and am attempting to patch (pictured in this thread).
Btw, I sort of messed up on my final sizer dimension at .302, instead of the desired .301-.3015. Do you think I'll have any issues with that. My Kimber bore seems to be pretty tight at around .300.
Finally got a few of these missiles patched up. Just need to get them loaded and wait for another opportunity to get out to the field...when all this snow melts. Attachment 215972
Howdy Outdoorfan,
I'm wondering how your paper-patched, pointy-nosed 230-grainers shot. Were you able to get them to group decently?
Please lemme know, and ...
Happy trails,
-- Cary Gunn --
Haven't checked in here in quite awhile. Unfortunately, I got real busy and never got back to this project. Haven't had any guns out since then, but I hope to again this fall or winter. I'll update if/when I get back to it.