My Flint measures 1" long. It rests on the frizzen, well just touching. Is this wrong? This is the lock on my Northwest trade gun. It appears my frizzen has been resoled I guess lol.
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My Flint measures 1" long. It rests on the frizzen, well just touching. Is this wrong? This is the lock on my Northwest trade gun. It appears my frizzen has been resoled I guess lol.
Try to find a shorter flint, or if you use a leather wrap on the flint, cut a
notch in the leather wrap to allow the flint to seat on the cock screw
should allow the flint to move back off the frizzen. You just have to
learn to fit the flint, took me awhile to learn too.
It should Not touch at Half Cock but it might be close.
leather wrap on it already and its notched. What im wondering is if its normal for the locks to vary that much in size.
Andy
You may need smaller flints. You do want a bit of clearance. Not all locks are created the same. You could make a small notch in the back of the flint to use up the ones you have, then get a smaller size next time.
If your frizzen has been resoled, the geometry of the lock can change and cause the flint to hit too high on the frizzen. So, you'll need to keep the flint further away from the frizzen and probably bevel down. Otherwise you'll get flint bashing and misfires. Been there done that with an original 1816.Quote:
Originally Posted by Texasgunnut
Is there someone i can send it to be checked or is it something i can do myself?
You don't need to do anything mechanical. Just position the flint so it strikes the frizzen about 1/3 of the way down. That way it scrapes the face rather than hitting head on. The flint will probably be shorter. By the way, you can cut your flints shorter with a Dremmel diamond cutting wheel. Works great.Quote:
Originally Posted by Texasgunnut
awesome ty guys.
This is what half cock looks like.Attachment 244776
The picture tells the story. Looking at the seam from the resole, you can see that space between the edge of the flint and the frizzen face would be fine without the added thickness. Cut your existing stock of flints with the dremmel wheel and you're good to go.Quote:
Originally Posted by Texasgunnut
I knapped it way back showers Sparks now. Need to find a small hunk of brass to use for knapping. Used a ole galvanized pipe elbow but it was clumsy.
Use copper for knapping, it is softer than brass and gets a better bite on the flint.
most muzzle loading suppliers sell them,if you choose to not make one.
notch the back of the flint's already too thick leather - that will set the flint back to touch the cock screw and will allow the necessary space 'tween the flint's edge and the hammer steel (frizzen). use a thinner leather flint leather in the future.
the back of the flint is cut out the flint is all the way against the screw. Thanks for all the replies guys i appreciate your knowledge.
A deer antler works best. I keep a long tine about 6 inches and use it to pressure flake the edge and keep it sharp. I also make my own flints. They last longer and you can use all 4 sides of them. I made some several years ago for Dirt Farmer at a Rendezvous we were at, he got if I remember correctly well over 200 shots from one of my flints. If he sees this post maybe he can recall the exact number. If you have questions about pressure flaking flints or even knapping your own there are lots of videos on flint knapping. I don’t make the traditional European flints, I make the same style as the Indians did. It is more work but they last longer.Quote:
Originally Posted by reddhawkk