Lee perfect powder measure owners, initial set up?

Got a new Lee ppm this past weekend as my other measure does not care for h4895.

I'm a stickler for measurements and even though in my initial testing of the measure even before I put powder in it I could tell it wasn't zeroed properly. Counting rotations my adjustment rod is a full 3 revolutions off.

The book says 1.0cc will give me 7.1 gr of red dot and when I tested it I had to add .3cc to it so 1.3 would give me 7.1...but it was right on the money so it was repeatable I just had to add .3cc's to whatever charge I wanted.

I can add a spacer to the thimble to account for the 3 threads higher I need the thimble to sit so 1.0cc is actually reading 1.0cc but I'm curious if anybody else ran into this issue. I'm not looking to make a silk purse here but I do want to understand what my volume is at a glance and not have to count # of turns.


So my question is, does your ppm when set to 1.0cc throw what it is supposed to throw or do you have to adjust?

Because of all the different powder shapes and densities and variables in how a measure is operated in my experience you use the setting on the chart as a starting guide and make adjustments from there. I record the final setting in my log and look it up the next time.

I don't use the chart at all. Just use cheap digital scale to get close then a beam scale .

That's an approximation to get you close. Don't go by it. Dial it in and weigh a few charges. You get three in a row where they should be and then just go to town.
Trust, but verify.

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I'm stupid on math, I just use my scale to set my Lee PP measure. I took it apart and colored the drum with a pencil and it works real smooth now.

Lee VMDs appear to be based on perfect powder packing for the bulk density. IF you note what charge you get at different settings, you can establish your own VMD. Then, the CC scale becomes quite valuable.
Bulk density is gn/cc and VMD is cc/gn.
When first using it, put paper under it if using any sort of fine powder—it will leak until the two parts wear-in. Do NOT adjust tension with any powder in the hopper that might get between the two conical parts. Take it apart, clean it, and then adjust to a slightly higher tension. I also run graphite powder or a hopper load of graphitized gun powder through it to lube and help seal things.

I've found the marks on the "micrometer" adjusting are just for reference. When I find a setting for particular powder and charge, I'll make note in my log. I can't remember if I ever found a reliable way to use "adjustable" powder measuring tools because powders often vary a bit from lot to lot and humidity plays a big part too. I use the adjusting marks to get me in the ball park...

My first Powder Measure was a Lee and I still use it for some pistol powders (IIRC; it's the same one I bought in '88, or if it's my original one it came my way in '70). Mine actually kept a bit less than .1 grain variation of W231. I use my CH-502 for my "log" powders.

I check on a beam scale ,don't worry about scale just adjust in or out to get the weight I need.