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I have a new Winchester by Miroku in 45 Colt. The rifle has only fired Starline cases and they show some blow back fouling down the side of the cases. I have annealed all my spare cases but haven’t had time to reload any of the annealed cases.
Just wondering if there is a case brand that will seal the breach without annealing or seals real good after the annealing process?
Try neck sizing the brass. Thats what I do with my Uberti win 1873 copy.
That alone has made a big difference in the blowback and smudged cases.
Starline brass is harder than Winchester brass for sure, but you did not mention what load you are using. A very light target load generally does not have the energy to expand and seal the case mouth allowing the blowback...
I was getting blow back in both of my Marlins using Winchester brass and light loads, 200grn boolit and starting loads of Trail Boss, 250grn boolits and a case FULL (NOT compressed) of Trail Boss and it seems to have fixed the issue, STOUT loads should do the job as well.
I had 2 M92's not Winchesters unfortunately . I had to anneal and neck size also . I stuck to Winchester mostly because it was available . I scored a good deal on some mixed nickle and brass Remington and it wouldn't feed . I have t didn't get along with the BlackHawk I had at the time either so I can't suggest that as an alternative either .
Stick with the Starline and anneal every 10-15 cycles and you should be good .
The first box of ammo fired was factory made Wolf Bullets brand made in Kingston, Ontario it is Stareline brass and a 250 gr full cppper plated RNFP I don’t know the MV.Quote:
Originally Posted by Baja_Traveler
The second box fired was my handloads: Starline brass, Federal 155 Magnum primer, 9.0 grs. of Hodgdon CFE-Pistol powder, 250 gr FCP RNFP bullet from Cam Pro, a good Redding Profile crimp to hold it all together. This handload chrono 927 fps out of my 5.5” barrel Ruger NV and felt much stronger than the Wolf Bullets factory ammo.
Possibly adding to the look of blow back on my handloads is the automobile wash and wax I use it’s added as rinse to add a wax polish to my cases. I’m thinking maybe it’s the wax that is getting burned or singed and that discolouration maybe looking like blow back.
Once I get some ammo made in my annealed cases then I’ll see how much blow back I’m getting.
l’ll try some waxed and non waxed cases in my handloads to see if the wax contributes to case staining or discolouration.
Yep, both neck sizing and using 700X or Red dot for lighter loads than say unique will cut down on blow by.
I just size my brass the length of the bullet for my Marlin. This will reduce blowback, and the brass will be worked less, and last longer. I think chambers on these lever guns are cut on the large side of specifications, so standard pressure loadings often don't expand enough to thoroughly seal off the chamber.
Shortly after I purchased my Marlin I acquired 500 new Winchester cases. The flash holes were not cleanly punched, and I had "hanging chads" on almost every case. My vote is for Starline cases, as a better case.
Bullseye powder for Cast practice firings. 4227 for serious rifle jacketed & G/c use. As far as the best brass?
Although there are many to consider. I still prefer Federal & Win over all those others including Starline.
I must really be behind the times. Washing & waxing cartridge cases????
And here I thought a LYMAN Ultra Sonic Cleaner with LYMAN Brand solution was MODERN.
Some reloaders add automotive wash and wax to their wet tumbler as an detergent.Quote:
Originally Posted by Walks
I believe that the SS pins plus powerful detergents like Dawn and TSP would remove any wax coating as fast as it was being applied. So I swirl my clean cases in a small plastic tub with Simonize wash and wax, then rinse. This way I know the wax is on the cases. Now the test is to see if tha coat of wax is getting burned or scorched on firing thereby adding to the dirty case look.