460 S&W Shot Shell using .444 Marlin Brass

This is how I made a shot shell for my 460, using full length .444 Marlin Magnum brass, offering a full 1/2 ounce load of shot....duplicating a 2 1/2” 410 shot shell.

While it works pretty good, powder charge changes may improve patterns somewhat. The primary purpose of this is to introduce the idea, perhaps someone can improve on my process.

Components: .444 Marlin brass, 2 1/2” 410 2 1/2” plastic shot cup, 1/2 ounce #8 shot (it’s what I had), large rifle magnum primers, and W 296 powder, and .44 cal. Gas Checks.

There’s a few extra steps involved, but, you’re not likely to be using them Trap Shooting.

As this brass, is almost the exact OAL as the 460 cylinder, the brass must be slightly “bottlenecked” to fully chamber, clearing the cylinder throat. I run the .444 brass just far enough into a 44 magnum die to create this bottleneck.

Load case with powder charge, seat the shot cup (small wooden dowel works nicely), pour in 1/2 ounce of shot. For this I used a rifle brass as a dipper with a wire soldered to the case as a handle. The case is cut down to hold 1/2 ounce of shot.

Place the .44 cal gas check over the shot, the cup inverted (cup to shot), apply a light crimp, just enough to secure the check over the shot.

Use your imagination for a seal over the check. I used “hot glue” the last batch....not easy to work with and possibly adds pressure due to it’s high adhesion to the case. My next run, I will use a high melt point wax candle for the seal.

My patterns were tight to 15 feet, then started opening up pretty rapidly. Some research indicated, that reducing the powder charge may improve the pattern. Also, using a different sealing method may help as well.

While this is still a “work in progress”, it offers great potential! memtb

https://i.imgur.com/YPnVT2Zl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/a6dga0fl.jpg

I'd use a powder more in the range of Unique or Win. 231/HP38. Those are recommended by Speer for their shot capsules, so there's probably a good reason for it. Reduced velocity normally results in tighter patterns in handgun shot loads, at least in my experience.

Hope this helps.

Fred

Thanks Fred, After loading these, some study indicated that I may be pushing the shot too fast. For my purposes, the patterns I’m getting will work....but, could probably be improved a bit! memtb

You can swage down a 45 acp case in a 44 size die to make a .44 short case with a rim left on it if you squeeze the case flush with the bottom of the die in a large bench vise.
You then hammer a rod thru the open die end to loosen the case which will drop free.Just use case lube and place the die over a larger hole to hammer out the case.
It will fall out after being loosened.
Use the case lube before swaging in the vise.

The whole point is:
You can do the same with a 30-06 ,case swaged down to .44 size and have a rim left on the case.
I have made the .44 shorts for lite loads in the .44 mag.
No reason the .30-06 cases can't be reduced to use for shotshells and cheaper too.

One more thing:
I used Steel RCBS size die to swage in the bench vise.
Not sure if carbide might crack sizing the web down to the rim.
Also If die cracks or shatters, have a rag loosely wrapped around it just in case.
Must be a lot of pressure there.
Be safe.Wear eye protection too.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by memtb

This is how I made a shot shell for my 460, using full length .444 Marlin Magnum brass, offering a full 1/2 ounce load of shot....duplicating a 2 1/2” 410 shot shell.

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i cut 8x57 cases to cylinder length for use in a 25-2 45 ACP revolver, using green dot to fireform them over 1/2 oz of #8 with glued in cardwad caps, and used to get "porch squirrel" kills reliably. moon clips are required for fireforming, but shoulder on fireformed brass headspaces them thereafter.

a porch squirrel is a squirrel close enuf to kill from the porch. the pattern begins to look like a spiral at 25-30 feet, so is not reliable much beyond. a fun exercise in absurdity.