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I had an RCBS Lube-a-matic fall into my lap. I ordered a heating element for it. The whole thing, along with a .358 and a .431 die are going to be shipped to me within the week. What do I need to know?
Right off, I have one question: can I lube bullets from a Lee tumble lube die?
Second: Any favorite recipes for lube?
The lube will be a stick lube. I am sure you will get plenty of suggestions on which recipe to use.
I have lubed and sized the ranch dog bullets in my Lyman 4500.
If you have the Lee's, you'll just have to try it and see how they go.
Give me a call if you need any stick lube...
For cleaning out the lubed, I pull out the plunger disc, bolt and sizer dies, then put on a cookie sheet in the oven with one end propped up. Put the oven on 200 for 30 minutes and it'll be ready for a new stick of lube.
I have one but I use Hi-Tec coatings. I just use it for sizing the bullets.
I run Ranch Dog's bullets in my Lyman 450. They have larger micro grooves than Lee's tumble lube bullets. The couple attempts I tried Lee TL bullets, I didn't get it to work so well. Best I recall, I tried the TL452-230-TC.
https://cdn.bulletmatch.com/jjyq0x5c...e0mwl8t50zvjq4
lar45 has great lube for a good price (lsStuff link if you scroll down to the links below).
One more thought- I’ve been using a LAM for 40 years with almost no issues. The threaded collar that secures the sizing die into the sizer body can be easily cross-threaded. I recommend paying particular attention to detail when changing out dies. Other than that I predict that you will like using it. Good luck and enjoy!
The lube on the above Ranch Dog bullet is White Label 50/50.
Thanks. I ordered some White Label 50/50 sticks off EBAY so I have something to start with. At $2.85/stick I figure that's about as cheap as I could make it myself.
That is one phobia I have too. I found a hardware store hex nut that is the same size across the flats as the big hex nut and I sit it on top of the press hex nut and then gently lower the ram, with no Top Punch installed, so that it puts some weight on the press hex nut and aligns it perfectly with the threads. Then with just the weight of my hand on the press lever I GENTLY turn the nut with a wrench holding it between two fingers only! If you mess up those threads you got a problem. This has worked for over 40 years.Quote:
Originally Posted by Alchemist
I lower my ram onto the nut to square it to the threads when starting/tightening it.
That's how I do it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bazoo
Sometimes if it's cold, I wave a propane torch around it to melt out any old lube that is in the threads.
Then you can hand tighten it most of the way down.
GONRA sez - its like screwing in a spark plug -
Use FINGERS first to get started, then yer all set to finishup!!!
I use this method also. I will set the die in the press and set the nut on the die and use the ram to push it slowly and straight into the lube area. I also keep a hair dryer handy and can heat up the nut enough to melt a little of the lube out of the threads if need be.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bazoo
All the bits and pieces came in, and so I went downstairs with the determination that I wasn't coming up until I'd successfully lubed with the Lubamatic. I was surprised how easy it was. I should have done this years ago.
I had a pile of Lee 358-125-RF that were in various stages of completion. Some had been pan lubed and sized with a lee sizing die. Some had just been pan lubed. I just chucked the hole lot in boiling water and boiled off the old lube and then, when the pan had cooled, pulled off the skim of wax and dried the bullets. I recycled the pan lube by melting it down in a soup can and pouring it into the Lubamatic.
I did over 300 bullets. The only odd part was the color of the lube. There had been some black (probably RCBS) lube in the unit when I got it. My recycled lube was Khaki. The end result was a swirly mess, but it set up on the bullets just fine. I'm going to run through the recycled stuff while I'm getting up to speed and then switch to the White Label 50/50 when I run out.
I'm amazed at how little lube gets used I went through the hole pile and had barely used a half-inch of what was in the barrel.
From a tumble and pan luber of over a decade: The Lubamatic is the shizz. Why was I beating myself up all these years?
Whenever I switch lubes I don’t usually bother to clean out all the old lube- just put in the new stick and let the two-tone boolits roll. Only exception is if going from hard lube that needs heat to a softer lube. I have never noticed an issue with performance, probably because I mostly cast handgun slugs.
what ever kind of lube sizer you get heat is you friend
as I find out
late to the game but better late than never
… and turn it lefty-loosey first. You can feel the threads fall into alignment, then start righty-tighty.Quote:
Originally Posted by GONRA
Don't use heat unless you need to get the lube warmed in cool weather ...
or you have Hard Lube that needs heat to flow even on a warm day .
Soft lubes like 50/50 alox - beeswax don't need heat ... the hot lubes get by seals easier , then start leaking and get on boolit bases easier ...now you have to wipe them off .
So ... only use heat on hard lube or cold days ... soft lubes work better and don't need heat .
My favorite lube is Lithi-Bee ... 1 part Lithium #2 Grease to 3 parts Beeswax .
I use Lucas Red-N-Tacky #2 Grease ... no leading ever in handgun or 30-30 rifle !
Gary
The threads on my used LAM I stripped and sent it to RCBS for repair. They sent me a new LAM II as a replacement at no charge. Clean the internal threads before installing a new die, makes it easier to feel thread engagement. The LAM II has different threads that are a lot bigger and easier to start than the LAM I or Lyman 450.