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I HAVE DONE ACTION JOBS ON 50 OR MORE S&W rev. i have a new ruger s b and wanted to smoothed up the action to ihmsa spects. i have never taken a single action apart before. i have looked at ruger's video on this and does not look like a big deal. who has worked on this ruger and what should i watch out for
I've taken mine apart ONCE. I had an old friend that could do it in his sleep. But in my case I used a picture example I printed from www.realguns.com. Good luck.
If you can work a S&W, the Rugers a piece of cake. I have done several Ruger SA's, and getting a 2# trigger using all factory springs is pretty easy. (About an hour). I would suggest avoiding any of the lighter aftermarket mainsprings. The Rugers have a slow hammer fall as it is, and a soft spring makes it worse. I have gone to 1.75# with all stock parts, but I think that is pushing it. Have fun.
remove the grips & unhook one leg of the hammer spring from it's pin, and put the grips back on & take it shooting. Some guys cut the leg off completely, but it's not necessary. You may be happy with it this way & save yourself some time. If you do disassemble, watch out for the damn coil springs & pins. Nothing will make you unhappier than losing one.
686,
A Wolff spring kit resulted in a 3-pound pull. And, yes, un-hook one leg of the hammer spring.
I agree with dubber123. I have done many S&W's and Rugers, the Rugers are easier. Like the othes said also dropping one leg on the trigger spring alone will make a big difference by itself. You didn't say if you had a blue or stainless, I think the blued models are a lot easier to stone than the stainless models. As you know, just go slow and test often. jmsj
As to the dropping a leg off idea, that certainly works, and is where the Rugers get most of their pull weight. The trigger return spring is really overpowered in my opinion. That said, I prefer to bend both legs to reduce tension. It looks a little more professional, and can be done with needle nosed pliers without having to disassemble the gun. I did a .22 Ruger, and that was all that was necessary, as they actually ground the sear right on that one. The other half dozen required some sear work to get rid of the creep.
Here's a decent link on the bending dubber talked about. I'm going to give it a go when I get the chance. Good luck.
http://www.cylindersmith.com/triggerspring.html
And the unhook procedure.
http://www.gunblast.com/Poorboy.htm
First time I actually read the correct way, been doing it since the new models came out.
I use a magic marker on the hammer sear and scribe a line in the marker at half the surface. The I just use my good bench grinder to remove to the line. Some polish with a ceramic stone, break the sharp edge and it is good to go.
I will hit the trigger a little with the stone too but they take almost nothing.
Takes longer to explain then to do it.
Using a stone by hand will take a loooong time. :drinks: Really need a jig for doing it by hand and a set of stones from course to smooth.
My grinder is a slow 8" with fine wheels for tool sharpening. Just cool the hammer often, don't get it hot. Adjust the grinder platen for a 90* grind.
44mans description is right on the money. Not having a good slow speed grinder, I just used a new fine cut file on the last one to do the bulk metal removal, the parts aren't that hard. Saves a bunch of time, and actually is safer than taking 9 million swipes with a stone, as I feel it's easier to keep the necessary flat surfaces.