S&W Model 69 .44 Mag

The thing with S&W revolvers is all the big ones hit the web of your hand really hard and this gets old fast. With MY m29 I could shoot 12 rounds of full power loads and I was done. Put Pachmayer grips of that one and it was much better.

Fast forward to now and all the S&W L and N and X frame guns have the same grip frame and take the same grips. if you look at the pic I posted above you'll see that there is 3/8" of padding in between your hand and the grip frame. This makes all the difference in the world.

Ruger figured this out from the get go and put that same style grip on their GP100/44.

Randy

I need to work with my nephew’s 69 some more to put my finger on what the main difference is between my 629 MG and it.

I checked the weight and the difference is relatively small (around 3oz.).

What I did notice is that the effective grip angle was different. Not the frame configuration but the angle of the barrel as it actually presents itself in one’s hand with the supplied grip.

My MG wears the factory Goodyear’s it left the factory with. The 69 I have access to has it’s stock factory grip as well.

When you lay one revolver over the other you see some amount of rubber/synthetic material over the back strap on the 69. My 629 MG is bare at the upper end.

Logic would suggest that the covered back strap would bite less but we need to consider what the consistency of that covering. With the 69 I can access, it is a very dense material.

Without the cushioning, it acts more like the unforgiving and bare back strap that exists with my MG.

SO, when I compare the 69 vs. my MG, I find that my strong hand is bent farther forward and downward with the MG and less so with the 69.

I have a lot of experience with shooting my Ruger Redhawk which I switched to a rubber Uncle Mikes grip. The Redhawk has a more vertical grip angle as in my strong hand is likely even more straight compared to the S&W 69.

Bringing all this gobbly gook together, with my MG has a bare back strap at the top and an extended bit of rubber at the lower rear area. My wrist is more bent as in my hand leaning farther forward. The 69 has the top strap covered at the top but apparently less rubber at the lower rear, thus my hand is held straighter to have the barrel pointed to the same level as the MG.

When either gun discharges, my wrist when holding the 69 will begin to really tighten up sooner than with my MG. The velocity of my MG in rotation is likely slower when my wrist rotation tighten’s up because I have a bit longer to slow it down. Thus the S&W 69 pounds me harder than my 629 MG.

Three44s

Back in Feb of 2014, I wrote the following in response to a question about recoil of my then new 4 1/4" M69:

I took the 329, 629 Mtn Gun and the M69 to the range this afternoon. Ammo was the aforementioned Federal Factory .44 Mag 240gr JHP (No. 44A). All three guns were equipped with the 500 X Frame Houge grips. My perception was that recoil of the 329 is definitely snappier/faster, and the Mtn Gun has a bit more muzzle rise vs. the M69. Only thing I can think of is that the barrel is skinnier and the bore to grip relationship is higher on the 629 vs. the M69 (which rides lower in the hand and has a bit more weight forward). Could also just be my imagination. As should be expected, the Mtn Gun feels a bit bulky compared to the M69 – subtle, but noticeable to me.

Recoil is subjective, so your mileage may vary.

Paul105,

You raise an important point about the balance point of a MG vs the 69.

If I owned a 69 for woods carry I would put an X grip on it in a heart beat. I was comparing the factory grip (69 vs. 629 MG)

I fired a 329 with the wooden grip and the owners bear loads. It did not bother me that much.

In my mind there are two recoil factors: One that is caused by the hand gun rotating within the shooter’s hand and which causes what I call “web bite” and the other, a straight back push or stab.

My Redhawk excels in generating the straight back stab, big time!

My MG is the opposite as it is a web eater.

Each of us react differently to recoil but for me, the web eating discomfort is much less of a distraction than the pounding my forearm gets from a gun that stabs me straight back.

Perhaps the 69 was stabing straight back because of a greater muzzle weight.

Best regards

Three44s

Three44s

My problem is the bone at the base of my thumb. Most grips hammer it unmercifully under recoil, even with moderate loads -- I even have trouble shooting a Browning HiPower comfortably.

The recent OEM grips supplied with the M69s (and others) for some reason don't work for me.

The Hogue 500 X Frame grips have been a God send. I've even modified them a bit as follows:

I’m a big fan of the S&W 500 X Frame Hogue grips (Tamers). I have them mounted on all my S&W Round Butt grip frames where they fit. They do seem a bit large on some of the L and K Frame guns.

So, I set about modifying an old set of worn out 500 X Frame grips. Using my “Work Sharp” knife sharpener (mini belt sander) I shortened, rounded and narrowed the bottom of the butt and eliminated the finger grooves. Because of the condition of the grips being modified this was basically “exploratory surgery”. For the 20 minutes it took, I was pleased with the outcome. Reduced grip profile, making them a bit more compact for better concealability (which I’m not particularly concerned with). I will note that there is enough material remaining on the grips that additional trimming would be fairly easy. Here's a picture of the results on my 2.75" M69 .44 Mag.

https://photos.imageevent.com/paul10...e/IMG_0732.JPG

I like these so much that I have a new set that I will modify in the near future.

Paul

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Paul105

Three44s



I will note that there is enough material remaining on the grips that additional trimming would be fairly easy. Here's a picture of the results on my 2.75" M69 .44 Mag.



Paul

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Paul,
I have the same problem as you. I cannot shoot anything larger than 357 in an N frame without a rubber grip that covers the backstop. For many years I used the Pachmayr Decelerator Grippers, even though they were too long for my medium size hand. The X frame grips are great. Have a set my my .45 Colt Mountain gun. However, on a 69 snub, they look way too long. In addition to what you have done, is there enough material to shorten them further at the butt? Thanks.

Paul105,

I feel for your dilemma with your strong hand, but I marvel at your ingenuity at problem solving!

For some time I have been thinking of constructing a belt grinder (heavier version of a sander) for my farm shop and watching the videos on U-tube gives me a lot of ideas ..... actually too many ideas on how to accessorize it!

But I digress. I am surprised that even with mods you can still shoot a 44 given your hand issue. Have you ever considered trying to switch strong hands?

Best regards

Three44s

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hardcast

Paul,
I have the same problem as you. I cannot shoot anything larger than 357 in an N frame without a rubber grip that covers the backstop. For many years I used the Pachmayr Decelerator Grippers, even though they were too long for my medium size hand. The X frame grips are great. Have a set my my .45 Colt Mountain gun. However, on a 69 snub, they look way too long. In addition to what you have done, is there enough material to shorten them further at the butt? Thanks.

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You might be able to shorten them a bit more. The problem is the attachment screw is in the way -- not sure there is a way around that.

Paul

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Paul105

You might be able to shorten them a bit more. The problem is the attachment screw is in the way -- not sure there is a way around that.

Paul

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OK, thanks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Three44s

Paul105,

I feel for your dilemma with your strong hand, but I marvel at your ingenuity at problem solving!

For some time I have been thinking of constructing a belt grinder (heavier version of a sander) for my farm shop and watching the videos on U-tube gives me a lot of ideas ..... actually too many ideas on how to accessorize it!

But I digress. I am surprised that even with mods you can still shoot a 44 given your hand issue. Have you ever considered trying to switch strong hands?

Best regards

Three44s

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Years ago, I changed the way I hold DA revolvers - hand rotated a bit and thumb held high - that a long with the X Frame grips have mitigated the problem. I can shot 50 rnds Magnum level loads (before I get tired -- ageing a bit) with no discomfort and no after effects. Usually shoot 30+ mag loads 2 or 3 times a week (before current stuff hit) - now not quite once a week. Don't know if this picture shows my grip.

https://photos.imageevent.com/paul10...782_Moment.jpg

I shoot my Kahr CW45 (long double action pull) once a month or so with my weak hand , and will run a cylinder or so thru the M69. Weak hand M69 is only going to be effective double action in an emergency and up close and personal.

Paul

I just called Hogue and ordered 2 more X frame grips. Thanks again Paul. :)

I had a 4.2" version and sold it. I did buy and install X frame grips, which made it much more pleasant to shoot, but it had barrel alignment issues. As it came from the factory, the barrel shroud was canted to the left noticeably. When trying to sight it in, I almost ran out of windage adjustment! So, I sent it back, and S&W said it was an issue with the frame. They basically sent me a new gun. And it was off too, just not as much. I never got around to shooting cast bullets out of it, but judging by the amount of copper fouling it quickly accumulated, I assumed a rough bore too.

My GP100 44 special suits me better for what I need. YMMV

Paul105,

I think I get a sense of how you are holding your revolver.

It looks like you shift the base of your thumb to behind the back strap and follow up with shifting your weak hand to replace the loss of support.

You are sort of clasping your grip?

All I can say is that you being able to fire that many rounds from a compact 44 Mag revolver and control it is simply outstanding given the circumstances!

Well done!

Three44s

Groo here
Tried that once [ya] never again.
After hitting the shield with my thumb,,, changed to the hammer grip and Keith's "cup" [ not under] hold and allowed the gun to move.
Unless you are shooting SD fast [ with a 44MAG????] Allowing the gun to "run " a little works wonders.
I stopped fighting the hard kickers a long ago.

I, too, use a grip very close to the Elmer Keith grip. Ive shot some hard kickers and still use the same grip. The M69 just doesn't kick that hard even with full house ammo. The only thing I have done is replace the RB stocks on the 2.75 inch to the SB stocks that come with the 4.2 inch.
an go to a Patridge style front on the one 2.75 inch I use. The other has a red dot and the 4.2 inch has a red dot.

I have always gripped a DA revolver like Randy posted in his pic several posts up from this. Looks like I need to learn something from you guys and modify my grip.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hardcast

I have always gripped a DA revolver like Randy posted in his pic several posts up from this. Looks like I need to learn something from you guys and modify my grip.

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Everyone's hands are different. My advice to anyone is to use a grip that is easy to do each and every time you shoot. Consistancy in grip make better accuracy. If you use a grip that is hard to take each and everytime you will have problems. A grip that is done without having to try to get into each and every time is the best for the individual. How many times do you see someone that is constantly messing with their hand position? I have seen many. Remember a grip for you and the hands you have and one that you can take each and every time you shoot is the goal not what I do or anyone else does. You are the shooter and therefore the holder of said firearm. That is what to remember.

Guys: the way these different guns recoil is all about the weight and barrel length. 329's are like 26 oz, the L frame M69 is about 36 oz and the MG is a little more. The ones with the shortest barrels are going to be snappier. (I hate that word) My G23 is snappy, while a G19 is not?

If they all have the same grips, how is that going to affect recoil?

???

Randy

Recoil????

Recently my model 29 cylinder came back from Doug and I just fired a couple mid-range loads through it. Even with light loads, I'm glad I put the X frame grips on it first. Going to load a bunch more for some more steel target banging. I will have to sell a bunch of Glocks(9 guns and 2 complete lowers) to build up the gun fund before I can buy a 69. But I already have a set of X frame grips for it. :) I appreciate all the input from you guys.