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I’m considering using cast 115 gr bullets in my 1943 Inland, and I was wondering whether cast would cause any problems with the gas port? I’m pretty sure cycling the action won’t be a problem, but I don’t like the idea of tearing down the gas port to possibly clean out lead. Anybody have experience with using cast in the M1 Carbine?
I have been shooting cast in my M1 Carbines for decades without any problems with lead in the gas ports. I know several guys who even shoot plain based boolits in theirs, but all of my M1 Carbine molds are gas checked designs. Mold-wise I favor the Lyman 311059 and the RCBS 30-115-SP, using Hornady gas checks and White Label 2500+ lube. My cast loads will shoot as well, or better than Lake City GI Ball.
M1 Carbine is one of the relatively few semi-autos not to suffer from the use of cast bullets.
Cast bullet loads in my Ruger Blackhawk, using the minimum charges which cycled the Carbine, gave 1300-1500 fps in the 7-1/2 inch revolver. The same loads fired from my WW2 Inland 1944 M1 carbine approximate full charge .32-20 loads suitable for the Winchester 1892, giving about 1700 fps.
The same powder charges and bullets I use successfully in my 1953 Polish 7.62x25 Tokarev perform well in both the Ruger and the Inland. A charge of 7.4 grains of Olin Auto Comp, measured with the RCBS Little Dandy Rotor #9 tames muzzle blast to moderate levels, functions the carbine reliably, gives excellent accuracy, and drops the empty brass from the carbine at your feet.
Plainbased cast bullets of 14-15 BHN give good accuracy up to 1500 fps in the revolver without leading. It’s easy to ring a 12” gong shooting at 100 yards with the Ruger revolver from a standing 2-handed position. The best cast loads from the Inland carbine produced ten-shot sandbagged groups at 100 yards of 3-4 inches with iron sights, versus 5-6 inches for WCC44 and LC44 Ball ammo.
Accuracy of cast bullet loads was better than FMJ or commercial soft points, except for Norma. My best cast bullet loads, use Accurate 31-100T cast 15 BHN and sized .311” with Lee Liquid Alox with 7.4 grains of Olin AutoComp, metered with the RCBS Little Dandy Powder Measure Rotor #9. Also satisfactory is a full-charge load with 14 grains of IMR4227, measured with RCBS Little Dandy Rotor #18. This approaches the velocity of factory ammunition, shot to the same point of impact as factory loads and didn’t lead.
Ignition problems in the Ruger or functioning ones in the carbine are avoided by measuring cases. Pay careful attention to eliminate any shorter than 1.28,” or longer than 1.285” which causes excessive mouth crimp. New Starline brass is held within 1.280- 1.285 inches and I recommend that you do likewise with yours! If your .30 carbine brass is uniform, and of correct near-maximum length, there should be no functional issues in either carbine or revolver. Dies for the .30 Carbine use a taper crimp, NOT a roll crimp, which affects headspace of the case mouth against the stop surface of the chamber. I recommend the Lee Quik Trim die, which uniformly trues brass to 1.280+0.005/-0.000 after sizing. I cannot recommend the simple Lee case gage, trimmer and lock stud, because the locating pin is now machined integral to the length gage, rather than being a press-fitted, hardened pin as it used to be. When run under power in a drill press, as many of us used to do, the pin end wears, so that consistent length cannot be maintained.
Best grouping of jacketed bullets is with the .309” diameter Hornady XTP, intended for the 7.62x25 Tokarev or .30 Mauser. The jacket thickness, skiving and cavity geometry of the XTP jacketed bullets enables them to perform well at the full range of velocities obtained from the .30 Carbine Ruger and the M1 carbine.
Was going to suggest the OP do a "search" as this topic has been beat to death with a lot of information already posted. However, after several search attempts myself I can't suggest that as the "search" feature on this forum sucks.
Cast bullets shoot fine in 99% of the M1 carbines. I prefer a GC'd cast bullet of 105 - 118 gr (fully dressed) loaded over H110 for ballistic that equal the original military load and most often much better accuracy.
I've had 24 carbines over the years and shot cast in all of them including an M2. Had problems with only one. None of the others ever hiccupped on lead. I've used plain base as well as gas checked. Most loads were accurate, but a few just didn't cut it, but never a problem that could be traced to using cast.
I’m on my second carbine.
My current one has been used exclusively with plain base 120 grain round noze flat point cast bullets that also works in my 32/20 1894CL Marlin!
I’ll probably go with plain base bullets, maybe Hi-Tek coated. I don’t need barn burners, just plinking loads that will reliably cycle the action.
Check castpics articles./beagle
beagle ... the Cast Pic References are hosed - coding errors that NOE hasn't fixedQuote:
Check castpics articles./beagle
I ran some of those 130 gn plain base cast through my Carbines, shot ok and cycled fine accuracy was just lacking. Did not dig into it much. No leading that I could
I found that the Lyman 311315 FNGC bullet ran well in the couple of carbines I have had.
Loaded over 296 or 4227powder. Same loads shoot well in the Blackhawk .
Shot better than LC,etc ball.
beltfed/arnie
I just shot some cast powder coated Lee C309-12R with home made aluminum gas checks today loaded with Alliant 2400 powder 11.8 grains.
They seemed to function fine in my Auto Ordinance Repro carbine.
Considering I'm an old phart and can't see my sights I think it did pretty well.