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I have my grandfathers 358 mold and I have cast 20 or so bullets and they look a little better. However, they are far from smooth. Is there an easier way than lapping to cut the rust out? I don't plan on loading these for quite a while, but I would like to have it ready.
You can use a rust remover like "Naval Jelly" or Brownells "Bluing Remover". They should work. You can also use muriatic acid. I've done that, but it requires gloves, open air and a certain amount of familiarity with the acid. Basically you'd fill the cavities with acid, wait about 10 seconds and rinse the mould in copious amounts of water. Then, if the rust is gone you need to get rust preventative on it NOW. You might want to blue the cavity, cold blue would work, or just let it go and the next casting session will take care of it.
In retrospect, Naval Jelly is probably the better idea.:roll:
I have had success in using 0000 (4 aught) steel wool wrapped around a brass brush in an electric screwdriver (run at slow speed looking often) to remove rust without hurting the mould.
The first time you cast with the mould it will reblue it good enough to use without problems (assuming it is only light rust).
Dale53
On rusted molds I use a #2 lead pencil, it also fills pits and gives a more pleasing finish to the boolits.
Exblaster
When you get the rust out the bullets will still be a little less than smooth. As soon as they get through the forcing cone they'll be smooth enough! Don't worry unless they don't shoot well.
I de-rusted a mold of my neigbors and it wound up shooting better than my copy.
One of the best rust removal techniques i've seen I learned from an old English feller who restored old motorcycles. He immerses the heavilly rusted parts in 50/50 solution of molasses and water for a week and then hoses them right off. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't seen it myself.....
.....may or may not be helpful to ya:neutral:
Actually that's exactly what I did. I soaked it for bout 3 weeks.. :mrgreen:
Suggest you go to the "Search" function and enter "evaporust". I got me some. Works good.
Molasses really does work! You've got to dilute it in water, leave it open and let it ferment. I think it's organic acids produced in the fermentation that do the derusting. It's very smelly.
Molasses makes good cookies too. I have a gallon of Phosphoric acid I use.
Powdered horse feed molasses is cheap, and a bit gritty for cookies.
Old cankered sorghum is great for derusting purposes.
I don't waste food that's still edible.
Molasses leaves iron and steel cleaner than phosphoric acid.
I have used the method in Wapsupi's link. I had tools that I've found that were completly rusted. Used a battery charger for the soarce and some washing soda (lye). The rust transfers back to metal, and no pitting, just like new. You won't believe it until you see it.
Anyone here advocating the use of the electrolytic method, perhaps using a couple 1.5volt batteries, or a 9volt battery on a........
Ruger from hell?? It's got a case hardened looking frame. Very pretty. Wrapped in a non-rust paper for three months, lightly oiled. The darn thing STILL rusted lightly over several sections of the frame.
I am not sure if I should go the 0000 steel wool, or go right to the electrolytic method. Third time it's happened to this pistol, I think it's jinxed...............Lee:wink:
Blue Wonder bore cleaner safely removes that rust Lee. It's a good product. I use it for barrel breakin on new rifles for quick shoot cleanups.
Lee, the electrolisis method will remove blueing, and color hardening. They are oxides, and would be bye bye.
As for the power source for electrolysis, a battery charger works well.
Once again, good proof that it pays to ask!!
Thanks for the replies, sorry for the slight detour of the thread..........Lee:wink:
Another method to try is an eraser. I prefer the white non-marring types used for art/drafting. It will polish the finish so go lightly or do the whole gun.