Reamer differences for .22 Short and .22 Long Rifle?? Any real differences?

I want to save a few bucks and use a long rifle reamer to cut a chamber in a short barrel.
The rounds are head spaced on the outside of the barrel end and not inside the barrel itself so I can't see any difference in
using the LR to cut the chamber for the short.
It's a couple of old 1890 / 1906 pumps.
Latter versions of the rifles shoot short, long and long rifles, so I can't see any problem myself.
The only difference in barrels is the twist used, 1 in 16" vs 1 in 20".
One big firm i called said it wouldn't work and another said they had no info to help.
Previous entries in this forum say it will work.
Did the person that asked the question earlier ever finish the project?
Did same person have any problem using the LR to cut the short chamber?
If said person had good success, could same email me with info on the specific reamer they used, if allowed by forum.

In my opinion a regular old hand reamer at .2224" to .223" as long as it doesn't cut into the diameter of the original 22 short chamber. could be used to extend it. But I'm not a gunsmith.

I should have mentioned that I need to cut a chamber because I'm going to put a liner in the shot out old barrel.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gunny Bill

I should have mentioned that I need to cut a chamber because I'm going to put a liner in the shot out old barrel.

---

22Lr Chamber isn't much. If you look at the bullet, there is not much to it. I think it is just basically reamed to the OD of the 22lr (which is consistent from the rim to the ogive of the bullet.) The Outside diameter of a 22lr Very exactly is .2224" I think that most chambers are about .2225" But again I'm not a gunsmith.

It should work but I have never done it so this is the best I can offer for advice.

http://www.assra.com/cgi-bin/yabb/Ya...num=1340588034

John Taylor wrote on Jun 25th, 2012 at 7:12pm:
The 22 Bentz chamber should work fine.

It's what I use for Martini rifles, but short chambered by about .040" to .050" so that the front drive band of the bullet starts to engrave when it's locked up by the breechblock. I cut the rim relief for proper headspace with a boring bar in the lathe.

David

What sort of rifle is it? Single breech loader? Single shot bolt? Repeater pump?

Do you need to be able to extract a loaded round or is it acceptable to have to knock it out or pry it out?

For a 22 short....
Single shot where you will have to pry out a loaded round:
Either get a 22 short chamber reamer from PTG (I think they sell match and sporting) or you could use something like the 22lr sporting reamer and go slow till a bullet falls in and stops around 1/16" from fully seated. You could use a Bentz for this and just stop early too.

If it's a repeater - I would do a 22 short saami chamber or use a 22lr sporting chamber reamer and go till the bullet falls all the way in. That way they will load easy and be able to extract.

I have a feeling accuracy would be better with the 2 degree leade vs the 5 degree leade - but uou may not have a choice.

Of course it will work! you just need to short chamber it. You don't need a c'bore on an Winny 1890 barrel. Measure the length difference and put a piece of tape on the reamer to tell you when to stop. I've got one to do myself and that's how I'm going to do it.

Yes you can shoot shorts/longs/lr's in a rifle chambered in 22lr.

Typical reamers for different 22lr chambers.
[IMG]https://i.imgur.com/swwznFY.jpg[/IMG]

The OP specifically asked

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Gunny Bill

I want to save a few bucks and use a long rifle reamer to cut a chamber in a short barrel.
The rounds are head spaced on the outside of the barrel end and not inside the barrel itself so I can't see any difference in
using the LR to cut the chamber for the short.
It's a couple of old 1890 / 1906 pumps.
Latter versions of the rifles shoot short, long and long rifles, so I can't see any problem myself.
The only difference in barrels is the twist used, 1 in 16" vs 1 in 20".
One big firm i called said it wouldn't work and another said they had no info to help.
Previous entries in this forum say it will work.
Did the person that asked the question earlier ever finish the project?
Did same person have any problem using the LR to cut the short chamber?
If said person had good success, could same email me with info on the specific reamer they used, if allowed by forum.

---

The OP is intending to cut a short chamber using a LR reamer for a firearm that does not require a counterbore. Unless I am missing something it should not be a problem.

Is this the original thread that's being referred to? --->>> http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ghlight=reamer

If you want to know if he tried it and how it worked out, just click on his name to send him a private message or email.
Or else he might not read your post.

Can you hold a LR reamer short and create Short chamber? Absolutely.

I'd make a little bushing of the correct length to slip over the reamer, to limit the chamber depth. Although being a bit long won't do much harm.

The bushing trick is how I do .38 Special and .357 Magnum chambers using a custom .357 Max reamer I bought from Dave Manson which has a proper throat for rifles. I then cut the rim recess separately.

I adapted this from an article by Ed Harris on rethroating rifles. He used a bushing plus shim washers to control the depth of cut, which is of course crucial when cutting throats. The basic idea was probably old before either of us were born.

With the .22, something to watch is the pilot diameter in relation to the land diameter of that old barrel. In doing .22s I've found land diameters to be all over the map. A pilot that is too small will not allow the reamer to cut a concentric chamber.

sometimes a short chamberd barrel uses a different twist rate than LR

Yes, rifles that were originally made for the Short always had a slower twist. That's the O.P.'s problem - he wants to rechamber an old Short barrel for Short, but has only a LR reamer.

Now am more confused than ever. There seems to be so much difference in brands / makers of these reamers that I don't know which to use now.
Am I dumb or just reading too much into some of the replies ( a bad habit of mine).
I think I will try the LR one and cut slowly, checking depth after each revolution or so of the reamer until .22 short drops in and out freely as it will be done in pump rifles (Winchester 1890 & 1906) which workings are identical in every thing internal except for camber and cartridge carrier parts.
If it works, it will save me around $75 - $85.
I will try in a test barrel I purchased to practice drilling bores out of any way. So worse that can happen it doesn't work and I have to buy / rent a .22 short reamer. I can use the barrel to assembly a test rifle to make sure it functions properly while I am at it.
I think it will work, but I'm no gun smith (though I've done enough work on my many firearms , mostly with success).
Will let you all know how it works outs when I've tried it.
I'll be doing two different liners in two different guns. They are a .22 short liner, 1 in 16" and a .22 LR liner, 1 in 20" from Brownell's.
If they ever ship the .22 short liners!!
Wish me luck.
SF to all the Jar heads out there.

Now am more confused than ever. There seems to be so much difference in brands / makers of these reamers that I don't know which to use now.
Am I dumb or just reading too much into some of the replies ( a bad habit of mine).
I think I will try the LR one and cut slowly, checking depth after each revolution or so of the reamer until .22 short drops in and out freely as it will be done in pump rifles (Winchester 1890 & 1906) which workings are identical in every thing internal except for camber and cartridge carrier parts.
If it works, it will save me around $75 - $85.
I will try in a test barrel I purchased to practice drilling bores out of any way. So worse that can happen it doesn't work and I have to buy / rent a .22 short reamer. I can use the barrel to assembly a test rifle to make sure it functions properly while I am at it.
I think it will work, but I'm no gun smith (though I've done enough work on my many firearms , mostly with success).
Will let you all know how it works outs when I've tried it.
I'll be doing two different liners in two different guns. They are a .22 short liner, 1 in 16" and a .22 LR liner, 1 in 20" from Brownell's.
If they ever ship the .22 short liners!!
Wish me luck.
SF to all the Jar heads out there.

Yes you are reading to much into it. Winchester 1890 & 1906 pump guns are fine rifles but they were never intended to be competition target rifles. Match chambers and match ammunition have there place and they do have advantages for specific applications. For you application you will not see a difference.

Don't mix your liners up! The 1 in 16" liner is for Long Rifle. The 1 in 20" liner is for Shorts. The 1 in 20" twist will not stabilize the 40 grain Long Rifle bullet.

Your plan of reaming the Short liner with the Long Rifle reamer is perfectly valid. If there isn't a rim recess in your rifles (you said there isn't), just ream until the Short cartridge just barely drops in and you'll be good.

I personally would not wait for a 1 in 20" liner. The light bullet used for the old Short cartridge shoots perfectly well out of a 1 in 16" twist, as millions of youngsters who shot Shorts out of Long Rifle barrels can attest. (I was one of them - Shorts were cheaper, which made my measly allowance and lawnmowing money go farther.)

Sorry about the brain fart I had in the liner specs. I had them reversed,
The short liner is the 1 in 20" and the LR is the 1 in 16".
I tried Brownell's again because of the differences in reamer prices.
They advised me that the Manson $55 would work just as good as the Clymer $75 would for the basic job, so I ordered the Manson.
Once I have everything I need then I will rent the drill bit from 4D and try my hand at it using an extra barrel I purchased just for the testing of my skills.
Will be using the old hand drill as I don't have any experience on a lathe (not that I could afford one).

On a side note, I purchased the cheapest drill press from Harbor Freight on sale, nothing wrong with it, just not using as much as I thought I would.
But I digress, I purchased a little rig by Dremel that converts certain models into a little drill press among other things.
And for working on a lot of the little parts, like drilling out a pin in 1890 / 1906 bolt where there should be a screw, the Dremel is more than adequate for the job. And add that flexible drive cable they sell and you can really clean up small parts, etc. in a hurry.
I got both add-on at my local Lowe's on sale.
Will let you helpers know how well or how buggered I do the job as soon as I've finished it.
SF

For reaming short only barrels I use a 22 lr reamer marked for depth and then a reamer I made up to cut the rim recess. Then the chamber is the right length w/o freebore for the short. Or you can cut the rim recess with a lathe.

The rim recess is no problem as it head spaces on the bolt with the rim completely outside the barrel.
Interesting little design, the rim is surrounded on the sides by lips on the bolt face and the top of the bolt and the bottom is covered by the inner workings of the trigger group.
So its only the depth of the cartridge that has to be adjusted for.
That's why I think it won't be any problem.
Like they said earlier, if I'm in a little deep, it won't won't hurt. (Her maybe, but not me.)
SF