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I have a cast iron pot that holds about #15 of lead and that sits on a hot plate to heat up lead for the only LEE pot I have, the baby #10 production pot. I don't know why I don't get a #20 pot since I go through a lot of lead in one sitting but the #10 pot works for my needs and I just top it off with the cast iron pot when I need more lead. Kinda used to the work flow now.
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I've got the Lee 20# ladle pot, it's about 15 years old and going strong. Before it were a Lyman Mould Master and a Saeco, both bottom pour and both died a horrible death, I don't miss them.
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I am going with the LEE 4 20 lb Furnace it will suit me best I am going to be casting a good amount of round balls for my pistol it is the Traditions 1858 Remington New Army .44 Cal.Steel Frame, 12" Oct. Barrel Buffalo FR185822
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Bigger is so much better . I got a 20# Magnum Melter (I ladle cast) two - three years ago , started out with 5 # pot , next came the 10# pot and I wish I had gotten the 20 # pot about 30 years ago ...yeah bigger is better , no if's , no and's or but's about it ...get the 20# pot .
Gary
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I've been remixing some lead I bought, just to get the ingots more consistent.
When I read this thread I thought I'll just check and see how much my Lee Pro 4-20 pot holds. I was trying to fill it level full. The last ingot I put in was one of the bigger I bought, it filled the pot to almost over flowing. The lead was curved up higher than the top of the pot.
When it got back up to temp I started to fill my ingot molds. I got 18 full ingots and one about 1/2 full. On the scale that came out to 18 1/2 lbs.
I usually run about 16 to 17 as a full pot. This gives me room to flux the alloy with plenty of agitation to get a good flux and mix the alloy well.
I have used Lee pots for years. Last year I built a PID. Bought all the parts on Ebay and Amazon. About $125. I built it into an old cash box. This way when not in use I wind up the temp probe and power cord inside and close the lid. The box has a single outlet in the side to plug in the pot. Keeps thing neat. Works very well. Keeps the pot temps much more stable.
I like the PID. I can use it to control more than just the pot. Things Like an oven for when I try powder coating.
Can't do that when it's built into the pot.
I don't think I'd like a pot with it built in. This puts that computer chip that does the controlling to close to the heat. When it's in it's own box you don't have to worry about damage when you stop casting, I just flip off the power switch and unplug everything.
Leo
I came back to this post because I didn't feel right about the price for the PID parts I mentioned. I was way off. I looked up my receipts on them and found just how far off I was. I spent $18.29 for the parts. I have no idea where that other quote came from. Musta blacked out for moment.
I then ran a search on Ebay. If you don't mind the wait to get a kit from China you can get a kit with the controller, SSR, Heat sink and a short probe for around $12.99 free shipping. If you want one a bit quicker you can get one from a stateside seller for around $26.
These kits need a box and a power switch, some wire and power cord.
Even with all that it won't go much over $50 to build one.
These kits use the REX C100 controller. It reads in degrees Celsius not Fahrenheit. I don't find that an issue but others might. You can find controllers that read in Fahrenheit if you look, they just cost more.
I might order up a kit or two myself.
Leo
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I agree with most. Go for the 20# pot. It has a bigger heating element too.