Printable View
I have read repeatedly that sorting by headstamp is a needed step. When I do that, I get jackets with a nominal +/- 0.003” variation. The problem is the odd flier that is 0.008-0.010” out. If I don’t catch them before point forming I get a mess. Sorting by length of jacket after core seating has yielded much better results when point forming and removes the need to sort by headstamp to begin with. What am I missing?
I mostly just do plinking rounds and dont worry with sorting. if you were doing a benchrest competition maybe you could benefit from sorting but it aint worth my time.
I agree with rancher1913. Making .22rf's into jackets can be used to produce fine & accurate bullets, but not consistent match quality. That being said, by careful sorting & measuring you can make bullets as accurate as many commercial bullets called "match". I agree it is fun to try & see just how good a bullet you can make & then savor your tiny target group. But I recommend you enjoy your "brass" bullets for plinking & PD shooting knowing there will be a flyer once in a while. To take your swaging to the next level, buy some quality Sierra jackets & see just how good a bullet maker you are! It's all fun....
Sorting by head stamp should:
(1) Result in more consistent brass alloy between each batch.
(2) Result in more consistent brass wall thickness between each batch.
(3) Allows rejection of Brass cases that may not work as well with your specific die set (has a lot to do with item 2 above).
All depends on what your objectives are. Back in the 1980's when I started with my .223 Corbin swage dies - I was focused on getting started; and pretty well used whatever .22's were picked cup at the range. Since then I have become more discriminating in my efforts; of course that's easy because all my Range pick ups get sorted (22's from other brass), cleaned in Ultra Sonic with Dawn & Lemishine and dried, then sorted by headstamp. I have several Gallon Plastic jars full of 22's - all sorted by headstamp; allowing me to make jackets and bullets in the winter when we are staying in the house more. Probably more .22's sorted than I will use for jackets the rest of my life; but then we do what we do.
The biggest problem I am having is setting the point forming due for the longest jacket. Without some sorting I get an odd jacket longer than what I set the due for and the bullet sticks in the die.
I'm no expert but my plan is to use one core for all jackets then sort by final weight.
I like 22 shells fired buy Anschutz rifles.
The round firing pin leaves a smaller imprint.
If you can sweep the floor after a 3P match, the results in mostly high quality brass from premium ammo, formed in dies that have less wear than the dies wall mart special ammo is loaded in..
Personally I have switched to only using Eley or Lapua. If you go on rimfirecentral.com and ask if someone who shoots matches wouldn't mind picking up bass after a match and sending them to you doesn't cost much. I had someone send me a 10 lb usps box for 50 bucks I think. I haven't needed to sweep up 22lr brass for a while now.
I think sticking with bench brass causes less headache.
I learned early on that sorting by headstamp made things easier all around. My dies (and myself) do not like the federal cases. They take a lot more effort to draw out and I get the folds on the noses 50% of the time. CCI draw out like butter and I get folds on 1 out of 30.
Federal cases seemed to be a good bit longer than the other common cases and seem to slow things down when they get mixed in. My advice would be to just sit down for an evening and sort them out. It does take time but the results will be more accurate bullets and much less frustration.
I have noticed that some .22 LR brass is longer than others. Nickel plated CCI Stingers for instance. Can you make heavier bullets with them? Also, .22 rimfire magnum brass is much longer and larger in diameter. Are they suitable for 6MM bullets?
I believe the stingers are actually a steel case. Set a few on the work bench and wave a magnet next to them and they'll wiggle. I use 22 mag and cut down 17HMR for 243/6mm bullets just fine. I would suggest getting the proper draw die and punch meant for 22mag though