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New ramp for front door
Im getting ready to make a new ramp for the front door to the house. What I have is mind is 2 pipe frames on each side for hand rails (at height that can be used like a walker) 4' wide and 5' long. It only needs to be 3" from deck to threshold.The pipe frame will have a length of pipe from side to side at height to support 2 x 6 s for ramp. 4 floor mounts on the pipes ends will anchor it.
The 2 x 6 will have a half hole drilled in the bottom to locate and lock on the cross pipe, the lower ends will be tapered to sit flat on the deck with screws thru to deck. The front edge of ramp will be with in 2" of the threshold and the same height. Will be wide enough for walker or wheel chairs. The deck is 12' wide so the 5' length of the deck will be okay and give a nice gentle rise
To drill the half holes Ill clamp 2 boards together and drill thru on the parting line in the drill press. Pipe frames will be 1" black Iron pipe and fittings. I may also cut a support block to go under the ramp at 2 1/2' for added support.
Think this will be solid enough to support a person using it for support? 16 lag screws will anchor it to the deck cant get under to use nuts and bolts. will align these flanges to an x pattern for the most strength.
Thanks for any in put.
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We probably have different regulations than over there but:
You don’t want a trip hazard getting on or off the ramp.
The thickness of a rug can be a trip hazard.
The slope has to be gentle enough to get up the ramp or some-one to push you with good grip even when wet.
I don’t know how to help you but there must be group for the wheelies and infirm to get the good oil on.
I’ve spent some time in the same boat at times in my life but luckily I have gotten better till I start to decline again in ohhh 20 years hopefully.
All the best with it.
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the incline will be 3" over 5' should be plenty gentle. the length was determined by the width if the front deck.I not only need the ramp but room to maneuver to get on it, so.......
Since there are steps straight in front of the door I also want a gradual ramp so there isnt a chance of a "run away chair" getting away from me and that 12" drop. LOl
I will only leave 1/4" of flat on the ends with the angle cut on them to strengthen them. Wood cut to a gradual point dosnt hold up as well and I do need some strength here to make it last. Another issue will be 3 grandsons who are barefoot a lot ( no need to risk splinters )
If needed a piece of thin grating or diamond plate can be added for added grip.
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We got a bit of aluminium checker plate bent up for getting a wheelchair over step/drop off.
Flat...slight rise...flat. Shape. It worked well.
I have seen boards with double sided fabric hinges used in the same manner.
So you can buy them.
You definitely don’t want to go cactus wompus off the bloody thing.
You only have to do it once and they’ll be on you forever.
Incline ought to be gentle enough. Ha
Could always make it 12’ wide with trailed off edges.
Then you could just go for it and not worry.
Whoohoo!
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the regulations say 1 ft of ramp for every inch of raise,at 5ft your ramp should be very easy to climb,i normally use angle iron for my bottom rails,easy to work with and mounts boards to if going that route
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1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 268742 this with support me and my electric wheelchair we way 600 pounds together,this ramp is 8ft long and will have expanded metal on it
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I thought about this measured and considered different ways. I wanted the hand rails to be a part of the ramp also. The walker isnt as stable to me on a ramp or rough surfaces. May just be me though. And I am spoiled by my all terrain chair. The Track chair just goes anywhere.
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ive got a 4x4 extreme 8 wheelchair but ive looked at the track chairs,i have almost decided on a ripchair 3.0
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My Travk chair is 400 lbs and Im 190 so not far from you. Thats if there isnt mud and crud on the chair. Or a grandson on my lap. I considered the angle iron frame also with grating. But I only need 3" of up lift to be even with door. not a lot ( but its getting harder to manually lift feet up to it.) I had considered a 4' X 4' pallet lift from the shop there are 2 for sale on the scrap list. cut thru deck and start from ground up. get on it and push button to door height. It has 28" of lift so when ups sits packages in front of door I could even raise them up to reach them easily. also.
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that would be nice also,less bending over the better
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Just a suggestion, you may want to consider using an anti friction covering on the wood. Maybe when you paint or use a varnish or other coating sprinkle some play box sand to add to the traction in bad weather or snow. The sand can be usually found at lowe's or home depot. Frank
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We used to mix sand into a bucket of paint to make use as a non-skid surface.
I can't remember the exact ratio, but it was about 4 or 5 parts paint to 1 of sand by volume, and put it on pretty thick.
That way, as it wears down over time, there is sand all the way through it, and will never get slick spots.
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I am still thinking on the finish Paint with sand added, plain sealer, Metal hardware screen (1/4" square) stapled down or rubber floor runner glued and stapled down.
Today I assembled the hand rails. the 1" black iron pipe feels good in the hands at 1 3/8 od. May pock up some shrink tubing to put over it for a better gripping surface. Cut the 2 X 6 s to length and set up drill press to drill the half hole. The floor flanges look to be what I need. Drilling the half hole is going to be a pain as the drill press only has 3 1/2" spindle travel so drill to stop and lower head then drill thru. I can clamp 2 together to drill a full hole and 2 at a time. BUt will have to drill the hole in 2 passes.
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I work with pedestrian ramps and ADA rules a bit.
3” = 0.25’
0.25 rise / 5’ run = 5% slope
As stated above, 1” per foot or 8.33% is the limit.
5% is a good slope.
Notable however is the requirement that “No vertical discontinuities over 1/4” are allowed”
Just getting onto the ramp is a problem for some.
If it’s your ramp and that’s not a problem, you’re good.
Russ