I tried to find out what this is, Glen F's article is good but confusing for someone like me I guess. Could someone identify what I have here. I would appreciate it. Thank you.
Attachment 224688
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I tried to find out what this is, Glen F's article is good but confusing for someone like me I guess. Could someone identify what I have here. I would appreciate it. Thank you.
Attachment 224688
Looks like bars of solder. The one on the bottom has 30/70 on it which may mean 30% tin and 70% lead.........or vice-versa. I can only remember when it is 50/50.
Agree that the larger bar is 30/70 tin/lead solder. It looks like you cut off the name of the maker on the top bar and just show the part of the bar that is the same on each, but perhaps there is something on either end that might clear this up. Look on all surfaces of the bar for stamps or marks. Sometimes the size and weight might help ID what you have.
Your pictures are bar solder. The numbers are the % of tin and lead. Its getting expensive and its useful for adding known amounts of tin to your bullet alloy.
50-50 is easy to remember it's 50% lead and 50% tin, or is it 50% tin to 50% lead? Hmmn now ya got me confused!Quote:
Originally Posted by dondiego
Thanks for the quick responses guys. I was hoping it was solder pretty sure it was. But had to go to the experts just to be safe. I have a 10 pound Lee pot now I have to figure out how much solder to put in it.
You figure it out with the handy dandy lead alloy calculator (Thanks bumpo)
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...oy-calculators
The calculator is a spread sheet that allows you to enter weight of different lead alloys and it calculates the resulting percentages, BHN and how many of what weight bullets it will make.
The calculations are done in an Excel spread sheet but if you don't have Microsoft Excel you can use Open Office Calc which is free and part of the Apache Open Office suite. https://www.openoffice.org/ Totally free and works with most Microsoft Office files.
I might have had some solder with 2.62 or maybe IS stamped on it that was XRF tested. Have to go look in garage and see.
Just a SWAG but it looks like body and or radiator solder from back when they used lead solders for radiators or as a seam and body ding filler on autos. Now it's mostly done using tin solders. You might want to check what scrap yards are giving for lead or solder and then see if any radiator repair shops in your area will sell you the drippings at a slightly higher price than the scrap yard pays, better price for them and better price for you. They probably already collect them if nothing else for beer or donut money.
PS some folks just melt a bit of solder in until they get a nice sharp fill out in the mold and don't worry about absolute percentages. In a 10# batch you won't need much solder. Use the known 30% tin solder and add little bit at a time to see what it takes to make your mold fill out well.
Sometimes the exact alloy really matters, making 100# of alloy for casting ingots or hunting bullets where velocity or expansion require the cast bullet be repeatable and consistent. Target plinking and using Clip on WW's you can go with solder amount that works and not go too wrong being a half or even couple of percent off.
RogerDat,
Thank you for the links, if I remember correctly this was given to me by a fellow that own a body shop. Casting a continual learning process.
I`m thinking RogerDat was looking over my shoulder when I made up a RCBS 22# pot of alloy last time. Having been a plumber I have `several` rolls of lead free solder laying around. I`ll unwind about a foot of the 1/4" solder and add it to the pot, bring the temp back up and try a few casts. If it still doesn`t look right then another foot goes in the pot, this process is usually right with at most 3` of this solder in my 50-50 alloy using new lead and new WW`s. Like the jingle from the old Brylcream commercial from `a while ago`, "A little dab will do ya" now referring to those solder sticks.Robert
I can't claim I came up with the approach that is for sure! Most revolver or lower velocity rounds like 45 ACP are not super fussy and pretty forgiving. Thank goodness, allows a hack like me to have some measure of success. I think it is like any other craft. After a bit you get a feel for how the material should flow or look to do the job.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hardcast416taylor
My wife cooking in the kitchen makes my skill casting in the garage look pretty lame. But then I don't get to cast once almost every evening for decades. Still same idea, she knows what the dough or casserole or stew should "look and smell like". I guess given time the same thing happens with casting. Although I don't recommend tasting to see if it needs more tin "seasoning". Burn your tongue. And if you find yourself sniffing the alloy to check the composition.... make sure it is cold ingot. Otherwise the flux fumes might mask some of the ingredients. [smilie=1:
I remember brylcream, only time I recall using it was when I had a pompadour, thankful for lack of pictures, never went to that barber again. Ever! Mostly we used Vitalis to try and tame my cowlick. Dad was always suggesting Crisco would work better.
I thought that Crisco WAS Brylcreme!
Hmmmm wonder if Brylcreme would make good ML lube? Maybe with a bit of bees wax?Quote:
Originally Posted by dondiego
Dad had a flat top so a little Vitalis kept him styling. Myself and brother used what he did. Was a big deal when my brother started buying his own aftershave (high karate) instead of using dad's Old Spice.
:lol: Unless my memory really sucks today,the RAF fighter pilots used to be referred to as"The Brylcreme Boys".
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo
I don't have an exact match but what I have is marked 2 5/8 which is 2.625 and my sticks the alloy is 4.7 Sb and 3.2 Sn
If that is what you have then .5 pound of your 50/50 and 1 pound of the 2.625 (if same as my alloy) with 35 lbs. of COWW's will yield approx. 11.7 BHN with 1.27% Sn which should be a very nice alloy.
If the 2.625 is same as my 2 5/8 then it should be a touch harder than clip on WW's and about the same hardness as your 50/50
Or Lucky Tiger, green.
On my Brinell tester I come up with a BHN of 12.