The correct color is a bluish-green that creates a temperature of 625-650 Fahrenheit. If the brass turns red - your in the 900 degree range which is over heatedQuote:
what color should the brass turn for correct annealing?
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The correct color is a bluish-green that creates a temperature of 625-650 Fahrenheit. If the brass turns red - your in the 900 degree range which is over heatedQuote:
what color should the brass turn for correct annealing?
I wanted to take all the guess work out of it. I bit the bullet and bought a Bench Source Vertex annealing machine. All brass done right the first time. And It's very repeatable. Attachment 204315
I’ve got some cases that I’ve fired 14 times and anneal every fifth firing
I've just always done it by eye, the color rings show nicely if you have the right lighting and you drop the case in water soon as the rings are just right. That's worked well for me anyways.
Different brands of brass will yield different visual results. Cartridge brass composition is not the same across all brands. This is why this method is not consistent. Yes, it can and will work. But the results will vary from case to case. If you're annealing for consistent bullet pull this will be a big problem.
If you are loading .351WSL and your custom made brass costs more than 50 cents each, you might be considering annealing. /Chris
Without over thinking or sounding TOO scientific, I spin 223 cases over propane torch using a cordless drill. The case is held using 3/8" six point socket (1/4" drive). I direct flame at case shoulder until case neck turns cherry red (dark room), then dump case in water.