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Evening all, I recently acquired an older Redding hydraulicly dampened scale and i am in the process of calibrating it. Here's the question. When you zero the poise out and the scale is empty, and with absolutely no reguard for the zero mark at the pointer end, should the beam be as close to level as I can get it?
It doesn't have to be perfectly level, as long as the pointer is located in a spot where you can read it. When you are weighing the charge, the pointer should be at the same place it was when you zeroed it. On my beam scale, I recheck the zero every time I use it-- before setting the charge weight I want.
https://www.bing.com/th?id=OIP.mI0dX...&pid=Api&dpr=2
This is zeroed
Good picture. Notice the pointer is at the "0" mark. If for some reason your bench is off and you cannot get it at the zero mark, you can use a different mark--BUT, whatever mark you use when the pan is empty has to be the same as the mark you use when weighing a charge.
It depends on the design of the scale to some extent. If you're resetting the scale from scratch, it might be a good idea to set the level adjusting screw to about the mid point, set all the poises to zero then tare the weight so the scale reads zero by either adjusting the weights in the weightbox under the pan or if using an Hornady/Pacific scale by adjusting the brass locknuts on the end of the beam.Quote:
Originally Posted by Butterbean
In theory best performance should be when the knife edge blades are at 90 degrees to the surface of the "V" block bearings and the beam level - unfortunately not always possible with the limited adjustment available with the level screw.
This is a Hornady "M" type scale I've set up just so with the beam level at zero.
http://i.imgur.com/vNOLUmIm.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/KyxfZyOm.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/H0ftyflm.png?1
I also zero the 5-0-5 beam scale at the beginning of each session. Check weights are used each time...
Bayou52
Thanks for the reply guys, i appreciate the info.