Glenfield 75C FTF problems.

I was given this Glenfield 75C some years ago. It seemed to function fine but would not fire. You could cycle the bolt, chamber the round, pull the trigger and hear it hit the firing pin but no bang... No firing pin mark on the rim.

So I finally took it apart thinking the firing pin was broke but it's not. What I found is slop between the back lug of the receiver and the fire control group frame where they are connected by a .25" pin. The hole in the lug of the receiver is a bit larger (worn?) then the holes in the FCG frame so this causes the FCG to shift back when fired and the hammer barely touches the firing pin.

Anyone else seen this problem and know of a fix. I guess I could try shimming the hole in receiver lug, just thought if someone else has been down this road there's no sense in me trying to reinvent the wheel.

Here's a photo of the receiver and FCG.
https://i.imgur.com/oaPA8bi.jpg

Is it possible to bush the hole?

Older model 60 parts will interchange, and instead of the plastic pin, you need the metal assembly post and screw. Tighten it down and the lower assembly wont move.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Glenfield-M...4AAOSwpP9Y5VWA

Might be a dumb question, but you did make sure the firing pin moved freely didnt ya?

Also... there is a homemade pin holding in the buffer. Its supposed to be a pin, that is knurled on one end so it stays put in one of the side plates of the lower assembly.

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/page...od/G3072970-00

Bazoo,
Yes, I saw the metal post and screw in the exploded view on Numrich’s site and was planning to order them.

Yes, the firing pin moves freely.

And yes, there’s a homemade pin holding the buffer in place. Was planning to replace that as well. But thank you for your keen observations. I wondered if someone would catch the plastic pin and the homemade bushing pin.

Upon further examination the butt end of the firing pin might have broke even though it looks smooth. With the bolt and FCG out of the receiver and placed together as if in battery and with the hammer uncocked, even pushing the hammer forward it doesn’t quite touch or barely touches the firing pin. While doing this I put a spent case in the bolt face captured by the extractors so the firing pin is properly referenced. I’ll try to get some photos of this.

You have definitely been bit by Bubba the backyard gunsmith. The back assy retaining pin and hole don't appear to be in bad shape and there is a lot of tolerance for this interface and the plastic pin is correct for the assembly. The home made wire retainer for the buffer is a case of someone not knowing what they were doing but would not stop the gun from firing. The buffer is the newer replacement from Numrich replacing the original white one and both were a really loose fit on the pin until the action is installed in the upper reciever. Proper replacement requires removal of the entire side plate as the buffer pin is supposed to be fixed and capped off wit an e-clip like the other pins. A view from underneath showing the hammer spring in the fired and cocked position and view of the bolt/firing pin may be helpful.

For the firing pin when pushed all the way back it should protrude about a 1/8 or so where the hammer will strike and conversely the same amount forward.

It does appear that the hammer is not going fully forward over center to make full contact with the bolt/firing pin and may be the cause of your FTF. The assembly was probably taken apart and may not have been re assembled correctly.

Though I hate to send you there lookup a user called Arrow Dodger on hated U-tube that shows the best video on disassembly and assembly of the trigger assembly.

Worst case you may need to locate a replacement action assy but there may be enough there to salvage and get it operational again

Heres a picture of my Model 60 action assy which is pretty close in age to yours, note how far forward the hammer is compared to yours. Also the plastic pin has been the standard for a while, no need to fix whats not broke. when the action is in the stock and the screws tightened down all the slop should go away. The torque for both screws is around 7inlbs overtightening the rear may crack the trigger guard. Some folks tighten the front screw up to 13 inlbs to tune the rifle for the best groups.

Attachment 222010

metricmonkeywrench,
Thanks for the info here. Yes, the hammer is not going all the way over center. All the parts look good and original but the connecting rod from the cross bar (?) to the hammer with the hammer spring seems too short not allowing the hammer to fully travel forward. Could be case of wrong parts installed by bubba?

Here's a couple photos with the bolt and FCG clamped together as in battery. There's an empty case in the extractor and firing pin is all the way forward.

https://i.imgur.com/W3wY52B.jpg

Close up from above. You can see the hammer falls short of hitting the firing pin.
https://i.imgur.com/wpYg6XA.jpg

Firing pin looks to be about right. Unless my eyes are deceiving me it looks like the hammer spring is not touching the hammer at all. It should be under pressure even with the hammer forward. This gives the proper velocity to shoot the firing pin forward.

If so best guess is that Buba sprung the side plates while beating out the buffer pin and the hammer spring retaining plate let go. Since they didn't know how to get it back together they cut coils off the hammer spring until it would go back together.

At this point I would recomend pulling apart the action the right way and Assessing all the pieces.

A great source and step by step instructions can be found on Rimfire Central in the stickies.
http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums...d.php?t=197703

I had trouble with the Rimfire PDF link so here's a second site:
https://www.ingunowners.com/forums/g...-assembly.html