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I'm trying to seat PB checks (aluminum) on a Lee TL410-210-swc. They're cast with acww, and come out of the mould at .411-412". I tl them and size them to .410 in a Lee push through die. I've eased the entry into the die with a cone shaped stone turned in a drill press. I push them base first into the die after pushing the check onto the base of the boolit. The problem is no matter what I use for lube the check ends up "smeared" half way up the boolit. Is there any hope for correcting this?
I had that same problem. This is how I fixed it.....
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...and-thicker-Al
But if you have tried all lubes (and my fix involved a lube)..... have you gotten some 800 or 1000 grit paper and slicked up the inside of your die, mirror smooth?
Thanks for the link - if I was getting those kind of results I'd be happy with it. I haven't polished the inside of the die. As soon as I get a chance I'll give that a try. Also, I don't know how thick the checks are (I didn't make them myself).
Are you sizing first then coming back to seat and resize/swage the GC on the base of the boolit. This is how I do all of my PB GC boolits. As you have done I also push the boolit base first through the Lee push through die.
Yes. I lube them then size them (they come out of the die at .410) then seat the check on the boolit then push them through the die again base first.Quote:
Originally Posted by RobS
If you are good with things mechanical and have a steady hand, try and use the same stone in the drill press but cut a piece of 400 grit wet/dry sand paper to put over the shaping stone. This will give you a fine finish. Where the steady hand comes in, you may also try and move the die at different angles over the stone while the drill press is running as this will give the entrance a gentler edge. Make sure to turn the die in your hand several times every few seconds to help keep the opening from getting out of round.
The rough finish in your die is " smearing " the check.
When the interior of your die is mirror smooth, you'll minimize and/or eliminate your problem.
I'll have a little spare time this weekend Ben and I'll see if I can smooth it out a little. Just looking through the die in front of a strong light I can see that it is a little rough.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ben
Ok - I started at 600 grit then 800 and finished with 1200 grit. It's nice and smooth inside. The checks seat without "smearing" up the boolit. Now I'm having a problem seating them squarely. I'm getting frustrated with the whole process! Any tips/techniques on getting them seated squarely (I've never really had this problem before) ?
I've had to make ( from an appropriate size bolt ) a flare tool for the gas check.
By putting a flare on the gas check, the base of the bullet can fully ( and squarely ) seat itself in the bottom of the g/c.
It slows things down a bit, but you end up with some quality ammo when all is said and done.
Ben
Ok that makes sense Ben. I'm thinking maybe find a bolt a little large, cut the head off and chuck it up in the drill press and take a file to it (?).
Yes,
If you miss the taper on your 1st attempt you grind the end of your bolt flat and then you can try a 2nd time.
You'll only be working with about the last 1/8 " of the bolt.
A bit of trial and error and you'll have exactly what you need.
I've been know to measure the inside of a g/c with calipers, lock the caliper, head to the h'ware store and use the caliper as a gauge to help in the selection of the correct dia. bolt. Then, I pick up 2 or 3 bolts and head home to make my g/c flare tool.
Ben
Ben, I appreciate you taking the time to help me out. I'll give that a try as soon as I can. I'll try to steal a little free time early tomorrow morning. I'll post the results.
I find that it works well to saw off the head of the bolt and the threaded portion, then you have the smooth shank to use as " stock " to form into your flare tool.
Then you can put the bolt in your elect. drill or drill press, hold a flat file on the end of the bolt and remove some metal .
I gotcha. A bolt with a long unthreaded portion. I've got a pretty awesome "junk box" - I might even have what I need. I'll look tomorrow morning. Thanks Ben.
Here are some pics of one of my gas check expander tools.
It certainly makes getting the g/c onto the shank squarely a lot simplier.
http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/...psgt6cnguh.jpg
http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/...psipvdiber.jpg
A couple of taps with a light weight hammer makes all the difference in the world. Once the g/c is expanded, I take a screw driver and tap one edge of the g/c and it will remove it from the expander tool.
http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/...pswex5dtjm.jpg
Let us know how this works out.
Ben
I tried to follow your lead there Ben. This is what I ended up with.
Attachment 132464
Attachment 132465
Like you said a few taps with a light hammer - I can pry 'em off with a thumbnail. The checks seat squarely. Problem solved, thanks Ben.
mac60
That's GREAT ! !
Flaring the checks slows things down a bit, but the end results are often times worth it.
Ben
Interesting! Thanks for the tips. I'd never been keen on homemade checks due to fit issues, always ponied up for the Hornady checks. Might have to give those a try again. Then I'll be buying a check maker.